After the visual part of the tasting (https://macaudailytimes.com.mo/tasting-i.html), we now have an idea about the strength of the wine: flavours, alcohol, age, even if it is from a cold or hot climate. The second step in our tasting is the most important as the sense of smell is by far the most sensitive. Just with the nose it is feasible to assess the grape varietal, if it is faulty, the method of vinification, what type of terroir or part of the world it is coming from, and its overall quality.
To smell, bring the glass to the nose – remember always holding the glass by the stem – and notice where you start to perceive its aromas. The further away the stronger the bouquet which could indicate that the wine is made from very aromatic grape(s) and/or from a warm climate. If the wine doesn’t smell “clean” it is most likely faulty. (This will be the topic of another chapter.)
Now that we have the primary scent, start swirling the glass to bring in oxygen and release the esters and aldehydes. In short, open its aromas. If the smell of alcohol is overpowering, put your nose at the top of the glass in order to detect more of the bouquet. In the event that your wine is ending up on the people around you, it is just as efficient and with less collateral damage to put the glass on a flat surface while swirling. If with each swirl the wine reveals different layers, this is a sign of great quality.
The sensitivity of the nose allows us to perceive many nuances: is the wine fruity (red, black, exotic or stone fruits, citrusy?), mineral, herbal, fungi, earthy, woody (oak, cedar?), spicy (black/grey pepper, cinnamon?), does it show some leather (new, old, Italian?) traces of coffee, chocolate (bean, black, white, milky?), meaty/gamy, chemicals (petrol, acetate?), tar, honey, flower… Each of these elements can be an indication of what varietal grape(s) is used, some of the vinification techniques, the age of the wine, and ultimately its quality.
For a white wine, for example, if you detect mostly exotic fruits, the wine might come from a warm climate and/or New World. Whereas an Old World and/or cold climate wine will show more minerality or earthy character. If it shows some brioche or biscuit-like scents it is probably aged in barrel, on lees, which gives that yeasty and more complex character. For a red wine, barrel ageing will give it a smoky bouquet.
If the scent of gooseberry is predominant you might have a Sauvignon Blanc from the Old World. If it is blackcurrant it could be a Cabernet Sauvignon, and if there are some cedar notes it is probably aged in oak. Those are just a few common examples. Tasting abilities are built through a lifetime of experiences, developing knowledge, and sensory memories.
Here are two affordable German wines from the Pfalz region, made from two very aromatic single varietal grapes:
Villa Wolf, Pfalz Qualitätswein Gewürtztraminer 2016
Arguably the most aromatic grape, Gewürztraminer is one of the easiest to recognise. This pale gold white wine displays at first its signature bouquet of lychee and white rose, developing to Japanese peach, pink grapefruit and an evanescence of candy. Medium body with some lemon sorbet and grapefruit zest, long finish with some chalkiness and lime peel. Not as powerful as a Gewürtztraminer from Alsace, this is an easy-drinking and fresh wine that will go well with light Asian food or just by itself.
Villa Wolf, Pfalz Qualitätswein Pinot Noir 2014
The term aromatic is commonly used for white wines as they are more volatile than red wines. Yet if a red wine could be described as aromatic then Pinot Noir is a very good example. This light ruby red – better after being open for at least 30 minutes – has some strawberry sirup notes, typical of a traditional Pinot Noir. As well as red cherry juice, raspberry and liquorice. Vivid acidity on the palate with low tannins, flavours of wild red berries and crispy rice. This is a light-bodied red wine, well balanced with a medium finish. Easy drinking that will match a wide selection of light food. David Rouault
Wines available at www.claret-wines.com
David Rouault is a professional classical musician, part time wine consultant and full time wine lover, holding WSET Level 3,
Certified Specialist of Wine and Introductory Sommelier diplomas. www.dionysos.com.mo
