The Belgian Jester

At the crossroad of Germanic and Latin cultures, Belgium is one of the youngest countries of the Old Continent, becoming an independent state only in 1830. Situated along the 50th parallel north, the Belgian climate is on the edge of viticultural possibility. With the Belgian gourmet – or gourmand – tradition, the country is internationally renowned for its beer. Considering its extreme diversity and sterling quality yet small quantity, Belgian beer is not unlike vinous bijoux from Burgundy or Pomerol.
Belgium does produce wine. Its viticultural history probably began in the 9th century, coinciding with the Medieval Warm Period from 950 to 1250. As elsewhere in Europe, monasteries and monks were the driving force behind wine, needed inter alia for religious purpose. Written records, meanwhile, can be traced backed to the 14th century, which marked the beginning of the Little Ice Age ending in 1850. During the same period, Belgian viticulture declined due to a combination of reasons: the rise of beer, the Belgian penchant for Bordeaux wines (it was their brothers the Dutch who innovated and traded Bordeaux reds) and industrialisation (Belgium was amongst the most industrialised countries in the 19th century).
As per varying statistics, Belgium has less than 200ha under vine, below 100 growers and just a score of producers. Of all the wine-producing countries with a classification system, Belgium is officially the smallest. Belgium has a French-style AOC system covering both Flemish-speaking Flanders (Vlaanderen in Flemish; Flandre in French) and French-speaking Wallonia (Wallonie in French; Wallonië in Flemish). There are 4 appellations for still wines: Hageland (Hagelandse Wijn), Hesbaye (Haspengouwse Wijn), Heuvelland (Heuvellandse Wijn) and Côtes de Sambre-et-Meuse (Flemish name N/A); 2 for sparkling: Crémant de Flandre (Vlaamse Mousserende Kwaliteitswijn) and Crémant de Wallonie (Waalse Mousserende Kwaliteitswijn); plus 2 country wine levels: Vlaamse Landwijn (French name N/A) and the flowerily named Vin de pays des Jardins de Wallonie (Flemish name N/A). Predictably, Belgian wine is overwhelming white, made with Burgundian and German varieties.
Yet, the 4 wines featured in this article have nothing to do with the aforementioned classification system, simply because they are not made with grapes. Non-grape wine, and fruit wines in particular, have existed since time immemorial, e.g. cider (apple), perry (pear), jerkum (plum) and mead (honey). During the infancy of human civilisation, crops and fruits and plants were fermented, often unintentionally, into alcoholic drinks – anything with ample sugar and sufficient acidity will do. Grape wine did not achieve hegemony for granted, but only thanks to the grapes’ stable sugar level and acidic balance, affinity with oak and the kaleidoscopic diversity. To understand non-grape wine is to better understand wine in general. The wine world is becoming increasingly homogenised, but it should be much more than merely Bordeaux ratings and cult wines … We as consumers have an important part to play.

   Les Vins de Roisin Vin de Cerise 2003
Made with 100% cherry. Dark garnet with carnelian-maroon rim, the Burgundy-like nose offers redcurrant, red cherry, caffè macchiato and plum blossom. Braced by bounteous acidity, the delectable palate delivers cranberry, morello cherry, clove and rosewood. Medium-full bodied at 11%, the juicy entry carries onto an energetic mid-palate, leading to a vinous finish.

Les Vins de Roisin Vin de Rhubarbe 2002
Made with 100% rhubarb. Rich golden with marigold-metallic reflex, the pungent nose presents mirabelle, brioche and daffodil. Buttressed by piercing acidity, the tangy palate supplies physalis, pumpkin seeds and brine. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the appetising entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a tart finish.

Les Vins de Roisin Vin de Coing 2003
Made with 100% quince. Deep golden with light amber reflex, the fruity nose furnishes dried peach, crystallised tangerine, sweet ginger and ginseng. Anchored by juicy acidity, the succulent palate provides nectarine, pineapple, coconut shred and lemon curd. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the toothsome entry persists through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

Les Vins de Roisin Vin de Framboise 2003
Made with 100% raspberry. Rich mahogany with bright tawny rim, the perfumed nose effuses ume, dry salted plum, café au lait and molasses. Supported by joyous acidity, the endearing palate emanates hawthorn, mango chutney, hazelnut and fruit cake. Medium-bodied at 14.5%, the floral entry evolves into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a complex finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To (re-)discover the meaning of wine, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: adaleung@cottagevineyards.com; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages