The Carpathian Linden

Situated in the centre of the Carpathian Basin and surrounded by the Carpathian Mountains, Hungary covers some 93,000 sq km and has a population of just under 10 million. The country is often described as geographically Central European and historically Eastern European, but linguistically and culturally, Hungary is arguably non-European. Traditionally classified as a Uralic language, Hungarian is a lonely enclave in the linguistic map of continental Europe, sharing more in common with the Siberian languages than those of its neighbours’.
The ethnogenesis of the Hungarians – or Magyars – is not yet settled beyond reasonable doubt, but it is generally held that the Hungarians originated from the southern Ural Mountains, the mountain range that separates Europe from Asia. Migrating westward since the 8th century, the Hungarians entered Europe and, by way of military conquest, finally settled in the Carpathian Basin in the late 9th century.
Extensive interactions with ethnically European neighbours ensued, and Hungary has by and large been ruled by European royal houses since the 14th century and uninterruptedly by the House of Habsburg since the early 16th century. An important part of the Austrian – and subsequently Austro-Hungarian – Empire, Hungary used to be almost as large as Italy. The post-WWI Treaty of Trianon in 1920, with self-determination at its core, ceded some 72% of Hungary’s land mass to Romanian, former Czechoslovakia and former Yugoslavia.
If nationalism can be reflected by wine, the case study has to be Hungary. Revered for its incredibly sweet botrytised wine, Tokaj in northeastern Hungary is no doubt the jewel in the crown of Hungarian wine, but due to the Treaty of Trianon, part of Tokaj now lies in Slovakia, leading to much dispute between the neighbours regarding the use of the name. Meanwhile, indigenous Hungarian varieties are known for their distinctive, if unfamiliar, character of fiery spiciness and lip-smacking acidity but, held in high regard in Hungary, Hungarian wines are often not competitively priced in the export market, on top of the pre-existing language difficulty.
Consisting of 22 wine regions, Hungary produces more white (60%) than red (40%) wines. Despite the influx of international varieties after the fall of the Iron Curtain, indigenous varieties such as Ezerjó, Furmint, Hárslevelű (literally: linden leaf), Irsai Olivér, Juhfark, Kéknyelű, Leányka and Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) remain popular, whereas Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) and Kékoportó (Blauer Portugieser) still are the preferred red varieties. Whilst Bordeaux relies on Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon for its white and sweet wines, the formula in Tokaj is Furmint, Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains).

Holdvölgy Tokaji Hárslevelű Expression 2009
A single-varietal Hárslevelű. Bright citrine with luminous golden reflex, the aromatic nose offers lime, nectarine, wet stone and frangipane. With piercing acidity and clear minerality, the potent palate delivers lemon, apricot, dried herbs and rhubarb. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the racy entry continues through an expressive mid-palate, leading to a cleansing finish.

Holdvölgy Tokaji Furmint Meditation 2007
A single-varietal Furmint. Rich citrine with brilliant golden reflex, the fragrant nose presents grapefruit, peach, dried herbs and lemon blossom. With penetrating acidity and clear minerality, the robust palate supplies bergamot, physalis, wet stone and rhubarb. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the stony entry evolves into a tangy mid-palate, leading to a clean finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

(NB: “Tokaj” refers to the region, whereas “Tokaji” to the wine produced in the said region.)

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages