The Evergreen State

Situated in the northwesternmost of the US, Washington State (officially the State of Washington) covers some 185,000 sq km, roughly half the size of Germany. To differentiate between the state and the US capital, both named after president George Washington, one is referred to as Washington State, and the other Washington, D.C. (officially the District of Columbia). Achieving statehood only in 1889, Washington State – formerly the Territory of Washington – is the 9th youngest state of the US.
Whereas the first vines in the Golden state were planted by the Spanish missionaries in early 18th century, the first vines in the Evergreen State were planted by staff of the Hudson’s Bay Company (French: Compagnie de la Baie d’Hudson) in the early 19th century. Established in London in 1670, this time-honoured company used the giant in fur trade and, for the commercially minded, it is still trading on the Toronto Stock Exchange. The influx of immigrants from Germany and Italy in the late 19th century gave a major boost to the Washington State wine industry, only to be curtailed by the Prohibition. After its repeal, similar to California, Washington State survived on vitis labrusca-based fortified wines. But a silver lining was already appearing, with commercial wineries beginning to open doors in the 1950s.
However, Washington State is still by all accounts a latecomer in the American wine industry, gradually picking up the pace since the 1980s. Today, it is usually ranked joint second alongside New York by wine production volume, followed by Oregon, its southern neighbour, which in turn has California as its southern neighbour.
The Cascade Mountain range roughly divides the state into two halves. The Pacific-influenced western half has the majority of population, while the continental eastern half has the majority of wine production. Due to the arid continental climate, irrigation is almost mandatory; in fact, the eastern half of Washington State is so dry that it was spared from the scourge of the phylloxera plague. Thanks to huge diurnal temperature variation and hence long maturation time, Washington State is noted for producing some particularly bright and crispy wines. It used to focus on Riesling and Sémillon for white as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for red, but has gone on to embrace a large portfolio of grape varieties. Constituting 60 percent of total planting area of Washington State regional-level Columbia Valley AVA is amongst the finest in the state.
Kiona Vineyards Columbia Valley Chenin Blanc 2013
Light citrine with pale golden reflex, the invigorating nose offers green apple, pomelo, wet stone and lemon blossom. With crispy acidity and clean minerality, the energetic palate delivers grapefruit, melon, fresh herbs and lime blossom. Medium-bodied at 12.8%, the juicy entry carries onto a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a cleansing finish.

Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain Merlot Reserve 2002
Rich garnet with brick-carmine rim, the captivating nose effuses cranberry, raspberry, cinnamon, balsam and wild flowers. With spirited acidity and silky tannins, the harmonious palate emanates bilberry, red cherry, dried herbs, cigar box and graphite. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the tangy entry evolves into a poised mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain Lemberger 2010
This variety is called Lemberger in Germany, Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary. Rich garnet with carmine-purple rim, the scented nose presents red cherry, plum, clove, cocoa and potpourri. With generous acidity and ripe tannins, the aromatic palate supplies black cherry, damson, nutmeg, coffee arabica and cedarwood. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the dense entry continues through a fresh mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Kiona Vineyards Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010
Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose furnishes cassis, blueberry, spice box, potpourri and cedarwood. With generous acidity and smooth tannins, the expressive palate provides blackberry, boysenberry, cinnamon, wild flowers and fragrant oak. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the ripe entry persists through a lively mid-palate, leading to a prolonged finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong 

To discover the charm of Washington wines, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages