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World of Bacchus
Home›Extra Times›World of Bacchus›The Franco-Iberian Enclave

The Franco-Iberian Enclave

By Jacky I.F. Cheong
Friday, February 6, 2015
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Located in northern Spain, immediately north of Rioja and east of the País Vasco (Basque Country), Navarra is both a Denominación de Origen (since 1933) and Comunidad Autónoma (first-level administrative regions of Spain). The majority of vineyards in Navarra are situated along the rolling hills of the great Pyrenees, the natural border separating the Iberian Peninsula from the European mainland.
Although the earliest written record of winemaking in Navarra dated back to the Roman era, viticulture certainly took root much earlier, as vines of the prehistoric vitis sylvestris family of vines, precursor of vitis vinifera, are still present in Navarra. Winemaking continued during the Islamic Iberia era, and boomed after the Reconquista, so much so that during the 14th century, laws were made to restrict vineyards to ensure cereal production.
The same as its neighbour Rioja, Navarra benefitted from the pilgrimage along Camino de Santiago (St. James’s Trail) to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, as well as – albeit briefly – from the devastation Bordeaux suffered due to the phylloxera plague. Geographically, Navarra is so close to Rioja that a small portion of its wine is classified as Rioja Denominación de Origen Calificada.
Not only in grape varieties but also in history, Navarra is closely related to France. From 1589 to 1830, the King of France – of the House of Bourbon – was simultaneously King of Navarra. It is perhaps no surprise, therefore, that Tempranillo, Viura (Macabeo), Moscatel, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Garnacha Blanca (Grenache Blanc) are planted alongside Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Traditionally focused on rosado (rosé), Navarra has shifted towards white and red wines in the last decades. Thanks to its diverse meso-climates and terroirs, such as influence from the Bay of Biscay, the Pyrenees and the Ebro, Navarra is not short of excellent wines, with a certain American oak influence. Jacky I.F. Cheong

  castillo-1Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay 2009
A single-varietal Chardonnay, grown in high-altitude (700m above sea level) vineyards, harvested at night and matured on lees in new French Allier barriques for 4 months. Bright golden-jonquil with glossy sunglow reflex, the nose is charming and creamy, offering lime and apricot for fruits, enriched by crème Chantilly, brioche, pine nut and acacia. Braced by ample acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is buttery and Meursault-like, delivering lemon peel and grapefruit for fruits, augmented by oaky vanilla, butterscotch, pistachio and light smoke. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the citrusy entry transforms into a multifarious mid-palate, leading to a nutty finish.

castillo-2Castillo de Monjardin Crianza 2009
A blend of 40% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, 30-year-old vines grown in high-altitude (475m above sea level) vineyards, matured in French Allier and American oak barriques for 12 months, followed by bottle-ageing for 12 months. Inky garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the nose is concentrated and fragrant, offering damson and cassis confit for fruits, adorned with eucalyptus, nutmeg, tobacco leaf and cigar box. Supported by lively acidity and rich tannins, the palate is attractive and scented, delivering blackberry, black cherry and black olive for fruits, complemented by liquorice, cinnamon and vanilla spice. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fleshy entry continues through a creamy mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

castillo-3Castillo de Monjardin Crianza Deyo 2008
A single-varietal Merlot, 30-year-old vines grown in high-altitude (525m above sea level) vineyards, matured in new French Allier barriques for 14 months, followed by bottle-ageing. Inky garnet with chestnut-rosewood rim, the nose is perfumed and seductive, offering cassis and plum for fruits, enhanced by vanilla pod, clove, mocha and sandalwood. Maintained by vivacious acidity and ripe tannins, the palate is aromatic and lush, delivering blueberry, black cherry and crème de cassis for fruits, supplemented by Christmas spice, cocoa and sweet oak. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the juicy entry carries onto a supple mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages

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