The Gin Exclave

Situated in northwestern South America, Colombia covers some 1.15 million sq km (roughly as large as France and Spain combined) and has a population of about 48 million (almost as populous as Spain). Prior to its de facto independence from Spain in 1810, wine was produced in Colombia mainly at Catholic monasteries for religious purposes. Subsequent to statehood, one would have thought that Colombia would benefit, in the same way as Argentina and Chile, with the influx of European immigrants who brought with them viticultural and winemaking know-how. Yet, due to restrictions on European immigration, this did not happen. Thanks to high taxation on wine imports, Colombia’s domestic wine industry did enjoy a little spring in the 80s and 90s of the last century, but production volume remained markedly small. In terms of both production and consumption, Colombia is still by and large a beer and spirits country.
Today’s globalised world is as such that the best vodka could come from England rather than Slavic countries, while the best whisky could hail from Japan and Taiwan instead of Scotland. It is perhaps not altogether surprising, therefore, that one of the finest gins on earth is from Colombia.
Gin may have originated from Europe in the Middle Ages as a herbal medicine. The English word gin, rarely capitalised, comes from French genièvre and Dutch jenever, both denoting junipers. Gin is notoriously difficult to categorise, and different countries define gin differently. Different producers have different formulae of flavouring ingredients, referred to as botanicals, the only constant is the inclusion of juniper berries.
In addition, different producers follow different production methods, one of the dividing features is whether the botanicals are infused or redistilled with the neutral spirit obtained from agricultural products. Gin styles range from light to heavy and from dry to sweet, indeed as infinitely versatile as Indian curry. There are good reasons why gin often serves as the heart of cocktails.
Established in 1913 in Cartagena de Indias, Destileria Colombiana produces such finer things in life as cigar, coffee, gin and rum of irrepressible character and premium quality, as evidenced by the multiple awards they have so far won.

To be continued…

Dictador Orthodoxy Aged White Gin
Aged in ex-rum barrels. Transparent clear with straw hues, the pristine nose effuses bergamot, mint, fennel seeds and angelica. With a refreshing mouthfeel and tangy acidity, the poised palate provides longan, pepper, ginger and iris. Medium-bodied at 43%, the invigorating entry continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a cleansing finish.

Dictador Treasure Aged Gold Gin
Aged in ex-rum barrels. Light marigold with bright amber reflex, the perfumed nose emanates tangerine peel, lime, spearmint and lavender. With a succulent mouthfeel and citrusy acidity, the vibrant palate furnishes lemon peel, kumquat, pepper and ginger blossom. Medium-bodied at 43%, the bracing entry persists through a zesty mid-palate, leading to a crispy finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the unique charm of fine gins, contact Ms Bolormaa Ganbold of PREM1ER Bar & Tasting Room; W: www.prem1er.com; E: bolor@prem1er.com; T: +853 6233 5262; A: 86, Rua Direita Carlos Eugénio, Old Taipa Village

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages