(Continued from “The Golden State III” on 27 November 2015)
For long periods in its viticultural history, the US did not have any formal appellation system in place, and the perimeters of individual wine regions were often identical to administrative units such as states and counties. It was not until 1980 that the American Viticultural Area (AVA) system came into being.
While appellations in the Old Continent were often demarcated through the centuries by Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries as well as royal decrees, in the US the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the Department of Treasury is the authority, having assumed this duty in 2003 from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms of the Department of Justice, finally severing the inseparable ties between Pinots and pistols as well as Rieslings and rifles.
At present, there are approximately 230 AVAs, which can be as tiny as a village or so gigantic as to cover several states. Any interested parties can petition the TTB to create a new or modify an existing AVA. It is markedly different from the general European system, and imposes little or no rules with regards to grape varieties, winemaking methods and yield, meaning any grape variety can be grown in practically any AVA. The stated vintage must constitute at least 95% of the grapes used in making a wine, whereas at least 85% has to come from the state AVA (or, in the case of county- or state-level AVAs, at least 75%).
Unhindered by history and tradition, American winemakers apparently enjoy more freedom than their European counterparts, although traditionalists may argue that the concept of terroir is in no way as closely adhered to in the US as in Europe, which remains one of the key issues dividing New World and Old World wines.
Situated in the western part of Paso Robles, the family-owned Windward Vineyard is a Pinot Noir specialist, a bijou estate that is entirely quality-driven. Covering merely 6ha, the estate grows Pinot Noir only, and produces one single wine, which can taste decidedly different depending on the vintages. Inasmuch as it is inspired by the elegant Burgundy style, Windward Vineyard is not afraid to interpret Pinot Noir in an authentic American way.
Windward Vineyard Monopole Pinot Noir 2013
Dark garnet with cardinal-Tyrian purple rim, the nose is delicate and fragrant, offering blueberry and boysenberry for fruits, imbued with eucalyptus, vanilla spice, Oolong tea and potpourri. Supported by abundant acidity, lush tannins and palpable minerality, the palate is nuanced and promising, delivering blackberry and cassis for fruits, complemented by black pepper, Qimen tea, sous bois and charred oak. Full-bodied at 13.8%, the composed entry carries onto a tangy mid-palate, leading to a long finish. Reminiscent of a Nuits-Saint-Georges. Merely 1900 cases produced.
Windward Vineyard Monopole Pinot Noir 2012
Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is ebullient and floral, effusing cranberry and redcurrant for fruits, infused with cinnamon, rose tisane, cedarwood and iris. Braced by generous acidity, silky tannins and fresh minerality, the palate is alluring and discreet, emanating red cherry and plum for fruits, supplemented by nutmeg, Earl Grey tea, forest mushroom and lavender. Medium-full bodied at 14.3%, the pure entry continues through a chiselled mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Reminiscent of a Chambolle-Musigny. Merely 1700 cases produced.
Windward Vineyard Monopole Pinot Noir 2010
Dark garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the nose is aromatic and brooding, presenting bilberry and cassis for fruits, augmented by spice box, dark chocolate, leather and graphite. Anchored by bounteous acidity, tasty tannins and clear minerality, the palate is masculine and profound, supplying blackberry and black cherry for fruits, enriched with black olive, allspice, coffea arabica and game. Full-bodied 14.7%, the dense entry persists through a smoky mid-palate, leading to a gamey finish. Reminiscent of a Gevrey-Chambertin. Merely 1375 cases produced. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the beauty of American Pinot Noir, contact Mr Ross Chan of CCF Wines; W: www.ccfwines.com; E: rosschan@ccfwines.com
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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