The Golden State VI

(Continued from “The Golden State V” on 29 January 2016)

There seems to be two watershed moments, largely concurrent, in the meteoric rise of Californian wine in the secound half of the 20th century: the first being the Judgement of Paris, and the second the work of one Robert Mondavi.
The Judgement of Paris – given its non-legal context, the word “judgement” should be spelt with an “e” – has categorically nothing to do with Greco-Roman mythology, but refers to the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 organised by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier. A panel of French wine judges were convened to conduct two blind tastings: the first saw white burgundies pitted against Californian Chardonnay, the other had clarets coming up against Californian Cabernet Sauvignon.
Rather predictably, the humble Californian David comfortably slew the haughty French Goliath in both categories, sending shockwaves – whether genuine or sarcastic – not seen since the French Revolution across both sides of the Atlantic. Back then, Steven Spurrier sold only French wine, and would not in his wildest dream wager on a Californian upset victory. But for his trouble, although unintended in damaging the prestige of French wine, he was declared a persona non grata by large sections of the French wine industry, banned from attending key wine tastings in France for a year. The centre-right Le Figaro and the centre-left Le Monde habitually disagree on most matters, but they united in mocking the tastings and results as a joke.
The fact that no specific criteria or framework was in place at the tastings, leaving the ratings essentially up to personal judgements of the wine judges, attracted much criticism. But blind tastings were – and are – often premeditated ambush aimed at demolishing established opinions, hence they are sometimes avoided by the big names of the wine industry, then and now. The truth to the matter is, Bordeaux wine was far from being in rude health in the 1970s, with most rated in the high 70s or low 80s by Robert Parker (love him or hate him, he is among the most consistent wine raters in the world), scores that would have been easily bested by 21st century cru bourgeois clarets.
Whereas the material impact of the Judgement of Paris remains contentious to this day, Robert Mondavi is almost unanimously hailed as the champion of Californian wine. A secound generation Italian-American – his parents migrated to the US from the Marche region – he founded the eponymous Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville in 1966, with the ambition to rival the crème de la crème from Europe.
A life-long advocate of single-varietal wines, in 1968 he experimented with a dry oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc and labelled it a Fumé Blanc, which is now a synonym of Sauvignon Blanc in the US. In 1978, he entered into a joint venture with Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild to establish Opus One Winery, which would go on to become one of the most sought-after cult wines in the world, while his wide range of wines remain to this day important references point for Californian wine.

 Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Dark garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the buoyant nose offers boysenberry, mulberry, spice box, crushed rock, rosewood and violet. Anchored by abundant acidity, tasty tannins and clear minerality, the exuberant palate delivers cassis, black cherry, nutmeg, black coffee, graphite and lavender. Full-bodied at 15%, the concentrated entry persists through an expressive mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Merlot 2012
Reddish black with purple-ruby rim, the aromatic nose presents cassis, damson, clove, cigar box, incense and charred oak. Braced by generous acidity, ripe tannins and palpable minerality, the opulent palate supplies blackberry, prune, black pepper, caffè ristretto, cedarwood and tar. Full-bodied at 15%, the dense entry evolves into a plush mid-palate, leading to a potent finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages