Located in northern Spain along the Ebro between the towns of Alfaro and Haro, Rioja is one of the only two DOCs (Denominación de Origen Calificada) of Spain, the other being Priorato of Catalonia. Prior to Priorato’s renaissance and Ribera del Duero’s meteoric rise in the last century, Rioja had for long occupied the throne in Spanish winemaking, unchallenged by even the distinctive Jerez.
The viticultural history of Rioja can be traced back to the ancient Phoenicians and Celtiberians. Subsequent to the Roman conquest, the Iberian Peninsula became an important granary to the Republic, later Empire. Following the Moorish conquest in 711, viticulture remained subdued for centuries in Al-Andalus, until the Reconquista gradually retook, from north to south, the entire peninsula from the Moors. By 16th century, Rioja has firmly established itself as the leading wine region of Spain. It enjoyed a golden period in late 19th century, when mighty Bordeaux was devastated by the phylloxera plague. Rioja went on to become Spain’s first DO (Denominación de Origen) in 1933 and DOC in 1991.
With ca. 57,000ha under vine, equivalent to 50% of Germany’s national total, Rioja comprises three subregions: Rioja Alta (NW), Rioja Alavesa (N) and Rioja Baja (SE). Wine regions are often not identical to administrative regions: in Rioja’s case, Rioja Alavesa is actually part of the Comunidad Autónoma of País Vasco (Basque Country), whereas Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja are part of the eponymous Comunidad Autónoma of La Rioja.
A clear majority – 85% – of wine produced in Rioja is red, the rest rosé, white and even some cava. Perhaps more than any other Spanish regions, Rioja is traditionally renowned for its hallmark use of oak. In the old days, the quality of a wine was sometimes measured – or perceived – by the amount of time it spent in oak. The duration of barrel ageing is as important to Rioja as Prädikat to Germany, so much so that it is legislated and clearly stated on the bottle. Joven has little or no oak influence; Crianza needs at least one year in oak and another in bottle; Reserva requires at least three years of ageing, at least one of which must be in oak; Gran Reserva demands at least five years of ageing, at least two of which must be in oak
In general terms, prolonged barrel maturation tends to soften the wine, hence the delicate, fruity and approachable style of classic Rioja; if “modern” Rioja opts for more alcohol, fruit and tannins, “post-modern” Rioja seems to adhere to the terroir, with low yield and small production. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To experience the traditional charm of Rioja, contact Ms Si Kong of Vinomac;
E: vinomac@wfv-macau.com; T: +853 2841 0231
LAN Rioja Crianza 2008
Deep garnet with bright burgundy-cardinal rim, the nose is energetic and lifted, offering cranberry and red cherry for fruits, enriched with tobacco leaf, lavender and cedarwood. Supported by ample acidity and tart tannins, the palate is herbaceous and tangy, delivering lingonberry and redcurrant for fruits, complemented by dried herbs, rooibos tea and charcoal. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the juicy entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a herbal finish.
LAN Rioja Reserva 2007
Dark garnet with vivid cardinal-ruby rim, the nose is attractive and expressive, radiating cranberry and plum for fruits, augmented by nutmeg, mocha coffee and fragrant oak. Braced by sprightly acidity and ripe tannins, the palate is aromatic and rounded, emanating raspberry and red cherry, for fruits, supplemented by clove, tobacco leaf and sandalwood. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the lush entry persists through a scented mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2005
Rich garnet with light carmine-ruby rim, the nose is discreet and mature, effusing black cherry and prune for fruits, garnished with spice box, tobacco, dark chocolate and sous bois. Underpinned by generous acidity and rich tannins, the palate is redolent and supple, presenting cassis and damson for fruits, adorned with black pepper, coffea arabica, forest mushroom and cedarwood. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fleshy entry evolves into a woody mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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