It is widely accepted that cereal wine originated from East Asia, and subsequently reached Southeast Asia and South Asia. The umbrella term “cereal wine”, referring to a wide variety of Asian alcoholic beverages made from grains, is an inaccurate one. Wine sensu stricto must be made from fermenting natural sugars in fruits, most commonly grapes. On the contrary, cereal wine is made from fermenting sugars converted from starch. This may appear similar to beer, but cereal wine relies on microbes for fermentation, whereas beer depends on natural enzymes. In addition, saccharification and fermentation occur simultaneously in brewing cereal wine, but separately in beer.
But “cereal wine” remains an ultra-convenient umbrella term – without it, one would have to contend with a kaleidoscope of names such as Chinese Huangjiu, Korean Cheongju and Japanese sake, which is yet another misnomer… The kanji character “酒” can be pronounced either sake or shu. What is known as sake in English is usually referred to as nihonshu (日本酒; literally: Japanese liquor) in Japanese. Japanese law, meanwhile, stipulates that sake must be labelled as seishu (清酒; literally: clear liquor).
Numerous parallels can be drawn between sake and wine, not only by way of ABV. Whereas winemaking was refined in European Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries, sake brewing was perfected in Japanese Shinto shrines. In terms of religious significance, sake is to Shinto what wine is to Christianity. Whether in art or literature, sake is every bit as cherished as in Japan as wine in Europe.
Yucho Shuzo (“shuzo” literally means “brewery”) was established in 1719 in Gose, Nara, and is now managed by the 12th generation of the family. One of the brewery’s main brands, the Kazenomori series is an innovative attempt to embrace hard water and controlled carbon dioxide in cool-fermented sake. Irrepressibly refreshing with palpable minerals, the final products bear an uncanny resemblance to Mosel Riesling, and indeed they can be enjoyed in similar ways.
Kazenomori Yamadanishiki Junmai
Made exclusively with Yamadanishiki rice at 80% polishing ratio and hard water, slowly fermented for 30 days under low temperature and bottled undiluted and unfiltered. Translucent clear with light beige hues, the expressive nose offers Japanese pear, button mushroom and jasmine. Medium-full bodied at 17% with a smooth texture and slight petillance, the bucolic palate delivers green apple, brine and lily, leading to a savoury finish.
Kazenomori Akitsuho Junmai
Made exclusively with Akitsuho rice at 65% polishing ratio and hard water, slowly fermented for 30 days under low temperature and bottled undiluted and unfiltered. Transparent clear with light beige hues, the floral nose presents Williams pear, mochi and daffodil. Medium-bodied at 17% with a crispy texture and slight petillance, the exuberant palate supplies greengage, sugar corn and sweet ginger, leading to a sweetish finish.
Kazenomori Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 60% polishing ratio and hard water, slowly fermented for 30 days under low temperature and bottled undiluted and unfiltered. Transparent clear with light beige hues, the scented nose furnishes mirabelle, rice cracker and ginger blossom. Medium-full bodied at 17% with an oily texture and slight petillance, the fleshy palate provides ume, rice sponge and daisy, leading to a moreish finish.
Kazenomori Kinuhikari Junmai Daiginjo
Made with rice at 45% polishing ratio and hard water, slowly fermented for 30 days under low temperature and bottled undiluted and unfiltered. Crystal clear with light beige hues, the airy nose exudes white cherry, hay and paperwhite. Medium-bodied at 17% with a dense texture and slight petillance, the elegant palate emanates whitecurrant, shiso and lotus, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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