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World of Bacchus
Home›Extra Times›World of Bacchus›The Southern Alps

The Southern Alps

By Jacky I.F. Cheong
Thursday, February 19, 2015
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With its 10 wine regions lying between the 36th and 45th parallels south, New Zealand is the most southerly wine-producing country in the world. Representing merely 1% of global wine production or 13% of its brother Australia’s, New Zealand nonetheless punches well above its weight in quality terms, as does the country’s All Blacks (national rugby union team).
Vines were first brought to Northland on the North Island in 1819, and the English oenologist James Busby attempted to produce wine in Waitangi back in 1836. Yet, it was not until 1851 that the first vineyards were established by French Roman Catholic missionaries in Hawke’s Bay on the North Island. Historically, New Zealand wine has focused on the North Island, but gradually moved to the South Island.
This is largely a cool-climate wine-producing country, with maritime influence from the Pacific and Antarctic oceans. In fact, most vineyards in New Zealand are within 120km from the coast. Thanks to the maritime climate, long sunshine hours, free draining soil, substantial seasonal and diurnal variation, Sauvignon Blanc has become the kiwi emblem ever since its first plantings in 1973, whereas Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Riesling are also on the ascendant.
The story of New Zealand’s meteoric rise is inseparable from Marlborough, the country’s most important wine region, situated in the northeastern tip of the South Island. Named after 1st Duke of Marlborough John Churchill, under whose command the Grand Alliance defeated France under the reign of Louis XIV at the Battle of Blenheim (the regional capital of Marlborough is, no surprise, Blenheim), it is here that Sauvignon Blanc reaches such height as to challenge the might of French Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, as well as American Fumé Blanc.
With an arsenal of legally permitted methods such as canopy management, irrigation, chaptalisation, acidification and deacidification, as well as the current trend of finding high-altitude vineyards and delimiting specific terroirs, New Zealand still sees room for advancement.

wb-fseries-1Framingham F-Series Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Light citrine with brilliant golden reflex, the exuberant nose radiates calamansi, gooseberry and guava for fruits, adorned with cut grass and nettle. Buttressed by racy acidity and pure minerality, the energetic palate oozes lime peel, pomelo and passion fruit for fruits, supplemented by scallion and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the tantalising entry continues through a pulsating mid-palate, leading to a tangy finish. An exemplar of New Zealand’s – albeit adopted – expertise and flagship variety.

wb-fseries-2Framingham F-Series Old Vine Riesling 2013
Light citrine with luminous golden reflex, the invigorating nose effuses lime, green apple and pineapple for fruits, decorated by lemon blossom and wet stone. Braced by piercing acidity and palpable minerality, the stimulating palate emanates lime peel, bergamot and guava for fruits, decorated by by lemongrass and fleur de sel. Medium-bodied at 12%, the composed entry evolves into vibrant mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish. A very fine cool-climate Riesling, this wine would benefit from short-term cellaring.

wb-fseries-3Framingham F-Series Pinot Noir 2011
Shimmering garnet with bright cardinal-ruby rim, the scented nose offers cranberry, mulberry and red cherry for fruits, elaborated with cinnamon and violet. Underpinned by vivacious acidity and velvety tannins, the succulent palate delivers raspberry, redcurrant and morello cherry for fruits, augmented by potpourri and sous bois. Medium-bodied at 14%, the charming entry carries onto a delightful mid-palate, leading to an adorable finish. This is a lovely wine combining balance, concentration, élan and harmony. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the treasure of New Zealand wine, contact Ms Si Kong of Vinomac; E: vinomac@wfv-macau.com; T: +853 2841 0231

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages

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