The Sub-Alpine Secret

Sandwiched between Burgundy and Switzerland, Jura is perhaps France’s best-­kept vinous secret, one with idiosyncratic character and Byzantine complexity. Named after the Jura Mountains, it refers to both the département and the wine region. Jura is in many ways the last frontier of French wine, a hidden treasure to be unlocked.
Historically, Jura and the région of Franche-Comté – derived from “Free County” – belong to the County of Burgundy, a constituent state of the Holy Roman Empire, not to be confused with the formidable Duchy of Burgundy. Jura and Franche-Comté, therefore, are not unlike Strasbourg and Alsace in sharing a certain degree of German heritage; for one thing, the major cities in the region all have German names, eg Belfort (Beffert), Besançon (Bisanz) and Montbéliard (Mömpelgard).
Yet more confusingly, the name Jura is not privy to France: the one in Scotland – of Gaelic etymology – is proud of its Highland single malts; the one across the border in Switzerland is one of the country’s 26 constituent cantons; Germany has a pair, the Franconian Jura and the Swabian Jura, whereby the word Jura means that particular sub-alpine wooded landscape in the way the word Alps is synonymous with high mountains.
Whereas the département is one of the least populated in France, the wine region is the smallest by both area and production in the country. It comprises merely 5 AOCs – Arbois, Arbois-Papillon, Château-Chalon, Côtes-du-Jura and L’Etoile – using mainly 5 varieties: Savagnin (known locally as Naturé) which is a distant cousin of Traminer and Gewürztraminer, Trousseau (known elsewhere as Bastardo), Poulsard (alternatively spelt Ploussard), Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Despite its small size, Jura produces a comprehensive variety of wines, including sparkling, white, rosé and red, but is rightly more renowned for its vin de paille (straw wine made from dried grapes or raisins) macvin (a vin de liqueur made by adding local pomace-based eau-de-vie to late harvest local wine) and vin jaune (late harvest Savagnin aged in barrels under a film of yeast for at least 6 years without topping up, finally bottled in traditional 620ml clavelin), some of which have been produced since the High Middle Ages.

   Frédéric Lornet Crémant du Jura Rosé Brut NV
A blend of 95% Poulsard and 5% Pinot Noir. Light copper with delicate marigold reflex, the bucolic nose offers raspberry, rosehip, courgette and geranium. With vibrant acidity, clear minerality and medium-fine mousse, the succulent palate delivers physalis, white currant, white strawberry and rose petal. Medium-light bodied at 11%, the clean entry carries onto an expressive mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Frédéric Lornet Arbois Trousseau des Dames 2011
A single-varietal Trousseau. Bight ruby with radiant cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose offers blueberry, redcurrant, blackcurrant leaf and poppy. With piercing acidity, accurate minerality and cleansing tannins, the animated palate delivers jujube, rosehip, paprika and rose petal. Medium-bodied at 13%, the discreet entry persists through a herbaceous mid-palate, leading to a floral finish

Frédéric Lornet Arbois Naturé 2012
A single-varietal Savagnin. Luminous golden with shimmering amber reflex, the aromatic nose presents apricot, mirabelle, sweet ginger and crushed rock. With generous acidity and clear minerality, the pungent palate supplies grapefruit peel, peach pit, sage and flint. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the bold entry continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a lengthy finish.

Frédéric Lornet Arbois Vin Jaune 2005
A single-varietal Savagnin. Brilliant golden with rich amber reflex, the nose is haunting and harmonious, effusing mirabelle, dried apricot, ume, curry powder and walnut. With heightened acidity, the nose is intricate and redolent, emanating figs, dried lime, oaky vanilla, almond shell and fine chalk. Medium-bodied at 14%, the spirited entry evolves into a theatrical mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

Frédéric Lornet is one of the leading winemakers from Jura, and the majority of his germs are now available at Cottage Vineyards; Contact: Ms Ada Leung; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages