The Swashbuckler Spirit

Armagnac is both the name of a historic province – for long in existence under the Ancien Régime and replaced by the département system subsequent to the French Revolution – and the name of the distinctive brandy produced therein. Not only is Armagnac the flagship spirit and pride of Gascogne (Gascony in English), it is also the oldest brandy of France, outdating Cognac by approximately two centuries.
Purportedly invented by the Moors in the 12th century (distillation was brought to Europe by the Arabs, who learnt the craft from China) and with written record dating back to 1411, Armagnac began to be produced in significant quantities from the 15th century. It was even prescribed and consumed as materia medica well into the Industrial Age. It became one of the first regions to be granted the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée status by the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité in 1936.
Armagnac is frequently compared to, juxtaposed with and pitted against Cognac, its main rival. The former is situated south of Bordeaux, whereas the latter is located north of the same city. With the exception of Baco Blanc and their respective local varieties, which usually constitute a minority both in the vineyard and in the final blend, Armagnac and Cognac are similar in making extensive use of Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle-Blanche, but that is about where their similarities end.
While Cognac is double-distilled, resulting in purer eaux-de-vie de vin at ca. 72% ABV, Armagnac is single-distilled, producing more fragrant eaux-de-vie de vin at ca. 56% ABV. Armagnac is often matured in oak barrels longer than Cognac, and as the precious liquid evaporates – poetically called part des anges, meaning angels’ share – at ca. 0.4% per year during maturation, old Armagnac may naturally stand at around 40% ABV, requiring no dilution at all when bottled and marketed. Furthermore, whereas Cognac prefers Limousin and Tronçais oak, Armagnac has its own Gascon and Monlezun oak.
Landlocked and deep in the rural south, Armagnac is dominated by family-owned smallholdings, as opposed to the large-scale luxury brands in Cognac. Yet the most telling difference lies in productions. Armagnac is often described as darker, earthier and fruitier than Cognac, but this could be generalization. Its candid and unpretentious character, however, is more than evident – think the gallant musketeers versus the scheming cardinal (fictional, of course…).
Spanning across the départements of Gers, Landes and Lot-et-Garonne, the production area of Armagnac is subdivided into three districts: Bas-Armagnac, the most revered and age-worthy (cf. Grande Champagne); Ténarèze, the most floral and seductive (cf. Borderies); and Haut-Armagnac (cf. Petite Champagne). Similar to Cognac, Armagnac is also classified by various levels such as VS, VSOP, XO, Extra, Hors d’Âge / Âge Inconnu, whereas the vintage – if indicated – refers to the youngest component in the blend.
Established in 1828, Chabot remains loyal to its tradition, so much so that although it was adored by the nobility and locals alike, it was not until 1963 that it ventured into the other markets. Available in 96 countries and regions in the world, Chabot is now the best-selling Armagnac in the world. Jacky I.F. Cheong

Chabot Napoléon Special Reserve
Luminous mahogany with bright amber reflex, the nose is scented and subtle, effusing plum, nutmeg, white chocolate, marzipan, tawny Port and tobacco. Buttressed by ample acidity, the palate is exuberant and persistent, emanating bitter orange, dried apricot, honey, caramel, Oloroso sherry and toasted oak. Medium-bodied at 40%, the potent entry evolves into a bold mid-palate, leading to an electrifying finish.

Chabot XO Superior
Rich mahogany with shimmering tawny reflex, the nose is aromatic and expressive, radiating peach, apricot, dried mango, toasted almond, nougat and lilac. Supported by generous acidity, the palate is lingering and sensuous, oozing tangerine peel, prune, sultana, oaky vanilla, butterscotch and tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied at 40%, the imposing entry continues through an opulent mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.

Chabot is available via multiple channels and at various duty-free shops in Macao.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages

UPDATED Aug 15