The Temple of Kamptal

Niederösterreich is Austria’s largest wine region, comprising a total of eight subregions, namely Carnuntum, Kamptal, Kremstal, Thermenregion, Traisental, Wachau, Wagram and Weinviertel. Of the octet, Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal are arguably the brightest stars, producing some of the finest Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings in the world. This is easily one of the most beautiful wine regions on earth, where breathtaking landscape is punctuated by majestic architecture, steeped in history and spirituality in equal measures, manifested in a way that seamlessly combines Germanic precision with Catholic exuberance.

Named after the Kamp river, Kamptal (literally: Kamp Valley) boasts nearly 4,000ha under vine, grown on an extensive variety of soil types, ranging from conglomerate, crystalline, gneiss, gravel, loess to sandstone. Climatic conditions are the result of delicate balance between warmth from the Pannonian Basin in the east and chill from the Alps in the west. On sloped vineyards, often terraced, optimal exposure is counterbalanced by cool nights, resulting in huge diurnal temperature variation, maximally extending the growing season.

Situated some 70km northwest of Vienna as the crows fly, Langenlois is the heart of Kamptal as well as the single largest wine-producing town of Austria. Langenlois is massive in stature: this is the seat of eight of the 32 ÖTW (Österreichische Traditionsweingüter) estates, including Bründlmayer, Ehn, Eichinger, Hiedler, Hirsch, Jurtschitsch, Loimer and Schloss Gobelsburg. Founded in 1990, the ÖTW is not unlike Germany’s VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter). In addition to complying with Austrian national law and European Union law, the ÖTW upholds its own classification system, namely – in ascending order – Klassifizierte Lage, Erste Lage and Große Erste Lage.

With its first written record dating back to 1178, Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg is Austria’s very own answer to Germany’s illustrious Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, founded in 1136. Both were Cistercian monasteries, and both are amongst the finest estates of their respective countries: Schloss Gobelsburg is a member-estate of ÖTW, whereas Kloster Eberbach a member-estate of VDP. Having grown vines and made wines for centuries, including the all-important Messwein (sacramental wine), the estate came to be managed by Michael Moosbrugger in 1996, initially supported his friend Willi Bründlmayer.

Schloss Gobelsburg is renowned for the purity and vitality of its wines (50% Grüner Veltliner, 25% Riesling and 25% red varieties), achieved by using traditional wood to obtain grape must in a very gentle manner, followed by spontaneous fermentation and maturation in barrels made from local oak trees. The estate’s Riesling from Zöbinger Heiligenstein is particularly revered: the said vineyard is rocky and terraced, reminiscent of the religious virtue that sainthood cannot be attained without suffering.

Samples provided by and tasted in the presence of David Rouault, co-columnist of World of Bacchus.

  Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Kamptal DAC Grüner Veltliner 2015

Sourced from relatively young vines (below 20 years of age) grown in the famed vineyards of Grub, Lamm and Renner around Heiligenstein (not the one in Alsace known for its Klevener de Heiligenstein), indeed holdings of the former Steiner Allerheiligenstiftung, whose history can be traced back to 1171. Limpid citrine with pastel golden reflex, the fragrant nose effuses lime, green pear, citronella and crushed rock. Braced by vibrant acidity and firm minerality, the herbaceous palate emanates green apple, greengage, kaffir lime leaves and rock salt. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the citrusy entry persists through an invigorating mid-palate, leading to a focused finish. Rated 90pts by Anne Krebiehl MW (Wine Enthusiast), but merely 84pts by Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) – not sure if this is due to uncompromising standards or American palate… Must all wines be as heavy-hitting as Châteauneuf-du-Pape?

Schloss Gobelsburg Zweigelt Reserve 2013

One of the few truly outstanding modern varieties, Zweigelt (Blaufränkisch x Sankt Laurent) was created by Prof. Dr. Friedrich Zweigelt, who also bred Blauburger (Blaufränkisch x Blauer Portugieser). Sourced mainly from the well-drained Gobelsburger Haide, home to some of the estate’s oldest Zweigelt vines, matured in 600l casks made from oak trees grown in the nearby Manhartsberg. Reddish black with carmine-garnet rim, the aromatic nose furnishes bilberry, mulberry, coffea arabica, charcoal and geranium. Buttressed by abundant acidity, rich tannins and structured minerality, the saturated palate supplies cassis, damson, clove, leather and bouquet garni. Full-bodied at 13%, the dense entry evolves into a multifarious mid-palate, leading to a smoky finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages