The Valley of Mistral II

(Continued from “The Valley of Mistral” on 6 May 2016)

Vallée du Rhône (Rhône Valley) is one of the oldest wine-producing regions of France, with its long history dating back to pre-Roman times. During the Avignon Papacy from 1309 to 1377, 7 successive popes resided in Avignon rather than Rome. All 7 pontiffs being French, Rhône wine received a huge boost, including the celebrated Châteauneuf-du-Pape (literally: new palace of the pope). In the 18th century, it was not uncommon for fine Bordeaux wine to be blended with the substantial Hermitage to increase body and weight, a practice called hermitagé.
A geographically extensive region, Rhône is both climatically and geologically diverse. The aristocratic northern part is known for the mistral (northwesterly) wind it receives, but the southern part is equally remarkable. Stretching some 200km from north to south covering more than 170 communes and about 85,000ha, Côtes-du-Rhône – and the more strictly defined Côtes-du-Rhône Villages – is a force to reckon with, and should not be viewed as simply a shadow of the more renowned AOCs in the Rhône universe.
The acronym of Côtes-du-Rhône, CDR, was not an easy reference invented by the wine trade in the mould of TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese) or BDM (Brunello di Montalcino). It was decreed by Louis XV in 1737 to specifically designate wines from the region, indeed an early precursor to AOC system brought about by the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) in 1936.
Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhône Villages are two dynamic appellations: outstanding Côtes-du-Rhône districts can be elevated to Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, which currently total 18 and can in turn be promoted to stand-alone AOCs, such as Gigondas (promoted from village to AOC in 1971), Vacqueras (same in 1990) and Vinsobres (same in 2006). Côtes-du-Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhône Villages often offer excellent value for money.
Since taking the helm in 1990, Jean-Paul Daumen has taken Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, situated in northern Châteauneuf-du-Pape, to new heights. Domaine de la Vieille Julienne is widely regarded as a leading producer in Rhône, and Jean-Paul Daumen has recently started his namesake organic project.

    Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Côtes-du-Rhône Clavin 2010
Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the aromatic nose offers dried bilberry, black olive, spice box, porcini mushroom, tobacco and crushed rock. With rich tannins and generous acidity, the complex palate delivers dried cherry, sandalwood, allspice, cigar, dark chocolate and game. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the fleshy entry carries onto an elegant mid-palate, leading to a long finish.

Jean-Paul Daumen Lirac 2010
Reddish black with rich cardinal-carmine rim, the haunting nose effuses crème de cassis, black olive, roasted hazelnut, bacon, rose and crushed rock. With sweet tannins, joyful acidity and precise minerality, the silky palate furnishes dried raspberry, allspice, coffea arabica, sandalwood, game and graphite. Full-bodied at 15%, the expressive entry evolves into a chewy mid-palate, leading to a prolonged finish.

Jean-Paul Daumen Côtes-du-Rhône 2010
Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the candid nose presents prune, dried bilberry, allspice, cigar, smoked bacon and game. With supple tannins and lively acidity, the potent palate supplies damson, dried raspberry, black pepper, coffee, garrigue and charred wood. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the juicy entry continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a herbal finish.

Jean-Paul Daumen Gigondas 2010
Reddish black with bright carmine-rosewood, the brooding nose emanates dried bilberry, dried prune, black olive, geranium tisane, camphor and graphite. With dense tannins, abundant acidity and palpable minerality, the saturated palate provides dried damson, cherry confit, game, nutmeg, mocha and sandalwood. Full-bodied at 15%, the dense entry persists through a scented mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and related wines are available via multiple channels – wine merchants, hotels and restaurants etc.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages