The Carthaginian Resurgence III

(Continued from “The Carthaginian Resurgence II” on 11 July 2014)

Located at the northern tip of Africa, Tunisia is merely 155km away from the Sicilian city of Marsala, or 225km away from the Sardinian city of Cagliari. Thanks to the milder Mediterranean climate as opposed to the semi-arid south which merges into the Sahara, the northern and eastern coastline of Tunisia is not only the most populated area of the country, but also the main wine production area since antiquity.
Stretching ca. 1,150km from north to east, the Tunisian coastline and the immediate coastal areas are home to 8 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Archaeological Site of Carthage, Punic Town of Kerkuane and its Necropolis, Amphitheatre of El Jem, Archaeological Site of Dougga, Medina of Tunis, Medina of Sousse, Kairouan and the Ichkeul National Park. Geographically and strategically important throughout history, this area has seen numerous battles since classical antiquity, until as recently as the North African Campaign of WWII.
Tunisia has 7 principal AOCs: Coteaux de Tébourba, Coteaux d’Utique, Grand Cru Mornag, Kélibia, Mornag, Sidi Salem and Thibar. The French connection is not limited to appellation and classification, but it is also evident in the variety of grapes in Tunisian. In fact, due to comparable climate and terroir, varieties popular in Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon are also common in Tunisia, such as Carignan, Cinsaut, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre for red, or Chardonnay, Clairette, Muscat d’Alexandrie and Ugni Blanc for white. Rosé remains the speciality of Tunisia, but vignerons are equally interested in producing white and red.
Established in 1948, ie 8 years before Tunisia became independent from France, Les Vignerons de Carthage has been the driving force behind the development of Tunisian viticulture and wine tourism

Cave de Kélibia Muscat de Kélibia Premier Cru 2012

A single-varietal Muscat d’Alexandrie, an ancient member of the Muscat family. Creamy lemon-yellow with light golden reflex, the seductive nose presents mandarin, mirabelle, hami melon, sultana and musk. Sustained by vivacious acidity, the succulent palate delivers lemon peel, grapefruit, green apple, apricot and fresh herbs. Medium-bodied at 12%, the herbal entry continues through a crispy mid-palate, leading to a rounded finish. An abundantly fruity wine full of sunny character.

Domaine Clipéa Chardonnay 2012

A single-varietal Chardonnay from Mornag, grown on clay-limestone soil yielding 60hl/ha. Manually harvested at dawn to preserve their freshness, the berries underwent pellicular maceration at 15 degrees Celsius. Bright jonquil with rich sunglow reflex, the copious nose reveals lime, nectarine, fleur de sel, pistachio and acacia. Maintained by pure acidity, the composed palate supplies lemon, apricot, starfruit, bouquet garni and butterscotch. Medium-full bodied at 12%, the lively entry carries onto a grippy mid-palate, leading to a focused finish.

Caves de Ghezala et de Chuiggui Clos Lansarine 2007

A classic Southern Rhône blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Grown on clay-limestone soil yielding merely 30hl/ha, the berries were manually harvested at dawn to preserve their freshness. Subsequent to long maceration, the blend was partially aged in French oak barrels for 6 months. Dark garnet with carmine-ruby rim, the multifarious nose offers black cherry, damson, liquorice, tobacco and game. Supported by generous acidity and supple tannins, the potent palate provides red cherry, prune, dried raspberry, coffea arabica and dark chocolate. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the fleshy entry evolves into a redolent mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.
To discover the historical treasure of Tunisian wine, contact Ms Linda Knightsbridge of Hubnet Ltd; W: www.hubnetwine.com.hk; E: linda@hubnetexp.com; T: +852 2433 9933

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.