The Valley of Mistral

After the prolific Languedoc-Roussillon and mighty Bordeaux, Vallée du Rhône (Rhône Valley) is by volume the third largest wine-producing region of France. Often overshadowed by the BBC (Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne) triumvirate, Rhône Valley rarely grabs all the headlines, but shrewd oenophiles would be all too aware of the exceptional diversity and value available in this region.
Named after the eponymous Rhône river, which stretches some 800km from the Swiss Alps in Valais through Lyon and Bouches-du-Rhône to the Mediterranean, Rhône Valley as a wine-producing region covers about 240km form north to south. Marking the northernmost of Rhône Valley, Coteaux-du-Lyonnais AOC is situated just west of Lyon. This appellation is perhaps more Beaujolais – neighbour to the immediate north – than Rhône in character, focusing on Gamay, Chardonnay and Aligoté.
Northern Rhône proper, representing merely 5 percent of wine production of Rhône Valley, is hugely prestigious and sought-after, with such illustrious names as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Cornas and Condrieu, followed by Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Château-Grillet and Saint-Péray. Here, Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne reign supreme, usually made into single-varietal gems. In between Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône is Clairette de Die AOC, which specialises in sparkling and still white wine.
Southern Rhône constitutes the remaining 95 percent of wine production of Rhône Valley, and its brightest has to be the impressively named and richly flavoured Châteauneuf-du-Pape (literally: new castle of the Pope). In the 14th century, 7 popes resided in Avignon rather than Rome. Papal presence gave a substantial boost to the local wine industry, which affected the commercial interest of Burgundy wines to the north. At one point, the Dukes of Burgundy actually banned the import of all Rhône wines in the duchy.
Southern Rhône wines are often blends, with Grenache Noir as focal point and complemented by Syrah and Mourvèdre, hence the “GSM” as known in Australia and other New World countries. The most telling example is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which allows up to 10 red and 9 white varieties in the blend. A host of other AOCs are scattered across the region, including Côtes-du-Vivarais, Gigondas, Grignan-les-Adhémar (formerly Coteaux du Tricastin), Lirac, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Vinsobres etc. Southern Rhône has 3 rather unusual AOCs: Tavel, which produces some of finest and most ageworthy rosé wines in the world, as well as Beaumes de Venise and Rasteau, renowned for their vin doux naturel (fortified sweet wine).
Marking the southernmost of Rhône Valley, Côtes-du-Luberon and Costières-de-Nîmes closely resemble Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon; indeed, the latter was reassigned to Rhône Valley from Languedoc-Roussillon.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitages Les Jalets Blanc 2009
A single-varietal Marsanne. Rich jonquil with bright saffron-sunglow hues, the fragrant nose offers nectarine, melon, pine nuts, fleur de sel butter and honeysuckle. With ample acidity and clear minerality, the supple palate delivers lime peel, grapefruit, apricot, pistachio and toasted oak. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the tangy continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a nutty finish.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné Gigondas Pierre Aiguille 2008
A blend of 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah and 10 % Mourvèdre. Dark garnet with carmine-crimson rim, the aromatic nose presents damson, dried bilberry, dried herbs, tobacco leaf and smoked ham. With generous acidity and rounded tannins, the savoury palate supplies prune, dried cherry, eucalyptus, nutmeg and gunpowder tea. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the fleshy entry persists through a dense mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

Paul Jaboulet Aîné wines are available via multiple channels – wine merchants, duty-free outlets, hotels and restaurants etc.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages