RED FOR PASSION, WHITE FOR ROMANCE

There is no question that many of us are crazy about Riesling wines from Germany. They are fruity, floral, and sweet like a perfect soulmate. For the Asian palate, Riesling wines are popular due to the fact that they are easy to drink, but to me, I had always thought that many German wines lacked sophistication. Up until I met with Mr. Martin Palmer, owner of Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines, I was very wrong.
Martin’s company was set up in 2008 to offer clients the privilege of acquiring bottles of “VDP Grosse Lage” Riesling and Pinot noir wine from the Nahe region, one-hour southwest of Frankfurt. The company’s selections are unique in the world, 100% hand picked, and are made in very limited quantities each year, because historically, over hundreds of years, small single vineyards have produced wines of the highest quality.
German wines from the “Grand Cru” vineyards of the millennium-old Nahe wine region are renowned for its 180 different certified soil types. These different soil types developed millions of years ago when the earth was forming through earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Named after the Nahe river which flows for 160 kilometers from the village of Martinstein until it empties into the Rhein river next to the town of Bingen, the region covers and area of 4,400 hectares which is 4% of the total German wine making area.
In Germany, traditionally speaking, the highest quality white wines are made from the Riesling grape variety and the highest quality red wines are made from the Pinot noir (Spaetburgunder) grape variety. For this reason, Martin finally decides to team up with Mandarin Oriental Macau’s Vida Rica Restaurant to create an evening of decadent food and wine precisely of these two grape varieties.
Excited and intrigued, I pick up the first label that we are going to taste. It’s the 2012 Tesch Deep Blue “White Pinot Noir.” What’s interesting is that usually Pinot noir makes red wine, but this is a white wine.
“This was made by the “2012 German Wine Maker of the Year” – Dr. Martin Tesch – of the Tesch wine estate, a blend of all of Tesch’s “VDP Erste Lage” and “VDP Grosse Lage” (Grand Cru) Pinot Noir vineyards. Deep Blue is a specialty from Nahe. After harvesting the grapes they were pressed and the skin contact with the juice was 2 hours. This is why the color is slightly pink,” Martin explains.
Dry in style, full bodied with medium acidity, the wine’s aromas and flavors are of peaches, red cherries, raspberries, cinnamon, minerals and apricots, complementing Chef Dominique Bugnand’s Hokkaido scallop with no reservation.
Next up is the 2011 Kruger Rumpf Dautenpflaener Riesling “Grosses Gewaechs, ” a hand picked Riesling coming from the Dautenpflaenzer “VDP Grosse Lage” (Grand Cru) vineyard made by the VDP Kruger Rumpf wine estate. The Dautenpflaenzer vineyard is one of the smallest and most famous Riesling vineyards in the world. “Grosses Gewaechs” (GG) is the German word for “Premier Grand Cru.” In the mouth, the golden, crisp liquid boasts notes of peaches, honey, pears, apricots, minerals and passion fruit.
“This is really a rupture from the bottles of German wine that I have had in the past. These wines that we are having tonight are more complex. They give you a different great feeling on every sip, and they never cease to surprise the palate with the food. That’s what I like about wine,” I say to my dining companion.
After what I consider to be the best bottle of Riesling I have ever had in my life, comes another wonder, 2010 Kruger Rumpf Pinot Noir “M.” Happy and enthusiastic, Assistant Director of Food and Beverage at Mandarin Oriental Macau, Mirko De Giorgi, comes over to our table and starts to pour the exquisite, ruby liquid into our wine glasses.
“This wine is like an elegant lady. I personally like it very much myself,” he indicates with gleaming eyes.
Indeed, she is a beautiful, delicate lady. I couldn’t agree more. Made by the VDP Kruger Rumpf wine estate, the wine comes from the Rheinberg “VDP Grosse Lage” (Grand Cru) vineyard. The “M” indicates “Master” and that only the best berries were used. Refined and silky, the tannins caresses like a soft feather, as flavors of red cherries, black cherries, raspberries, minerals, cedar and dark chocolate seduce the palate.
“The Germans keep the best stuff to themselves, and I am trying to change that,” Martin whispers.
“Please do. I am already in love with these bottles,” I reply.