The Ascending Villages

Situated south of Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais is the southernmost subregion of Burgundy in oelonogical terms. Prior to the 20th century, Mâconnais used to be famed for its red wines, but is now best known for its white wines such as Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé. Similar to the Rhône region, just below the commune-specific AOCs are the village-level of wines which, as per wine legislation, must be made entirely of Chardonnay without exception. Further down the ladder, the generic Mâcon does allow for white, rosé and red wines to be made of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay.
Vines were first planted in Mâconnais during the Gallo-Roman period and, as elsewhere in Burgundy, it was the Benedictines who contributed much to winemaking. In fact, the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny, the centre of Christianity in the region during the Middle Ages, is located in Mâconnais. This is a country of gently rolling hills with the warmest climate in Burgundy, relatively low rainfall and less chance of spring frosts. The beauty of Mâconnais’s landscape is as such that it was immortalised by its most famous son, the historian, poet and politician Alphonse de Lamartine.
For savvy connoisseurs, Mâcon-Villages wines – of which there are around 26, the better known ones include Lugny and Uchizy –  represent some of the best price-quality ratios in Burgundy, offering high quality Chardonnay at a fraction of the prices that mighty Côte de Beaune commands. Whereas unoaked samples are best enjoyed within a few years of vintage, oaked ones, which are increasingly common, can be cellared upward of 10 years. As general rule, soil rich in flint, clay and sandstone pebbles tends to produce approachable Chardonnays, whereas calcium-rich limey soil is conducive to ageworthiness.
Boasting centuries of winemaking history, the Devillard family – whose family estates include Domaine des Perdrix, Château de Chamirey, Domaine de la Ferté and Domaine du Cellier aux Moines – has in 2008 become involved in Mâconnais. Through the marriage of Pauline Beaumont and Amaury Devillard, Domaine de la Garenne was born. Located in the commune of Mâcon-Azé, the domaine’s 4.5ha of vines are planted on a well-exposed, southeast-facing terrace. It produces merely one wine, unoaked, embodying the best of what Mâcon-Villages has to offer. By Jacky I.F. Cheong

Domaine de la Garenne Mâcon-Azé 2013

Bright lemon-yellow with light sunglow reflex, the stylish nose offers lime peel, bergamot, daisy and seashells. Buttressed by crispy acidity and pronounced minerality, the fresh palate delivers lemon peel, grapefruit, fresh herbs and rock salt. Medium-light bodied at 12.5%, the refreshing entry continues through an invigorating mid-palate, leading to a pure finish.

Domaine de la Garenne Mâcon-Azé 2012

Bright lemon-yellow with light citrine
reflex, the uplifting nose provides sudachi, Tianjin pear, apricot and wet stone. Supported by tangy acidity and clear minerality, the energetic palate supplies lemon peel, lime, green apple and fleur de sel. Medium-light bodied at 12.5%, the juicy entry carries onto a vivacious mid-palate, leading to clean finish.

Domaine de la Garenne Mâcon-Azé 2011

Bright lemon-yellow with pale golden reflex, the refined nose effuses pear, peach, garden herbs and camellia. Braced by generous acidity and accurate mineality, the polished palate displays lime peel, greengage, white pepper and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 13%, the citrusy entry persists through a flavourful mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Domaine de la Garenne Mâcon-Azé 2010

Rich lemon-yellow with light golden reflex, the evolved nose emanates grapefruit, nectarine, crème Chantilly and eucalyptus. Underpinned by plentiful acidity and articulate minerality, the exuberant palate presents calamansi, apricot pit, brioche and acacia, Medium-full bodied at 13%, the fleshy entry evolves into a buttery mid-palate, leading to a nutty finish.

Kerry Wines is the regional (Greater China) distributor of Domaine de la Garenne; W: www.kerrywines.com; E: [email protected]

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages