(Continued from “The Mediterranean Heart II” on 17 July 2015)
The British penchant for fortified wines may variously be due to the cool climate of the British Isles, recurrent wars with their arch-rivals the French, or simply out of necessity in shipping and keeping. One thing for sure is that the British were instrumental in the development of not only Madeira, Port and Sherry, but also Marsala.
Marsala as we know it is generally believed to have been created by John Woodhouse, a wine merchant specialised in Madeira, Port and Sherry. Aiming to secure more supply for the British market, he arrived in the western edge of Sicily – where Marsala is produced – in 1770. Back then, it was commonplace for local producers to age their Catarratto, Inzolia and Grillo white wines in barrels for extended periods of time, sometimes per the in perpetuum (Latin for “in perpetuity”) method, similar to Sherry’s criaderas y soleras method.
To ensure that the wine would survive the long voyage and arrive in Britain in good condition, acquavite (grape-based spirits, as opposed to grappa, which is pomace-based) was added to the wine. Marsala became hugely popular in Georgian Britain, so much so that Admiral Horatio Nelson ordered in one go 500 barrels of it as ration for his command – the Mediterranean Fleet. One of the most prestigious commands of the Royal Navy, the Mediterranean Fleet has played a key role in the Trafalgar Campaign, which Napoleon Bonaparte’s planned invasion of the British Isles. The supply of fortified wine, it appeared, was a matter of national security.
Until the mid-20th century, sweet wines used to occupy the tip of the wine pyramid, but after the end of WWII, one after another fell out of fashion. It is a great pity that the great Marsala would become a mass-produced product, largely confined to the kitchen rather than dinner table. It was, until Marco de Bartoli began a one-man crusade to restore the pride of Marsala. Although he passed away in 2011, his name will forever be associated with the renaissance of Marsala.
Marco de Bartoli Terzavia Metodo Classico 2011
Made with 100% Grillo, aged for 12 months in stainless steel and French oak barriques in equal parts, zero dosage, followed by at least 18 months bottle-ageing on lees. Rich citrine with deep golden reflex, the invigorating nose effuses green apple peel, greengage, green olive and crushed seashell. Braced by piercing acidity and fine mousse, the measured palate emanates lime peel, kumquat, oyster shell and fleur de sel. Medium-bodied at 12%, the citrusy entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a pristine finish.
Marco de Bartoli Pietranera 2013
Made with 100% Zibibbo, a Sicilian variant of Muscat d’Alexandrie. Luminous citrine with soft golden reflex, the fragrant nose offers apricot, ripe grapes, musk and camellia. Supported by energetic acidity and palpable minerality, the expansive palate delivers lime, greengage, guava and rock salt. Medium-bodied at 11.5%, the refreshing entry carries onto an expressive mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.
Marco de Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Ventennale
Made with 100% Grillo, aged in oak and chestnut barrels for average 20 years per the criaderas y soleras process. Glowing amber with shimmering tawny-vermillion reflex, the exuberant nose radiates persimmon, macadamia, spice box, fudge, rancio and plum blossom. Underpinned with dainty acidity, the scented palate oozes loquat, ume, walnut, caramel, marzipan and fragrant oak. Medium-full bodied at 17.5%, the poised entry transforms into a woody mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
Marco de Bartoli Marsala Superiore Oro Riserva 10 Anni
Made with 100% Grillo, fermented in oak and chestnut barrels with acquavite added to halt fermentation. Glimmering amber with glossy cooper reflex, the seductive nose furnishes hawthorn, white sesame, walnut oil, gingerbread, marzipan and caramel. Anchored by generous acidity, the variegated palate presents ume, mango chutney, oaky vanilla, spice box, café au lait and fruitcake. Medium-full bodied at 18.5%, the suave entry evolves into a resplendent mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To be continued…
To rediscover the magic of Marsala, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: adaleung@cottagevineyards.com; T: +853 6283 3238
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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