The Southern Kaleidoscope

With approximately 16,000ha under vine, Sud-Ouest (literally: South West) is by production volume the 3rd largest wine region in France. One of the oldest wine-producing areas of France, it prospered during Roman times well before Bordeaux. Sud-Ouest covers large swathes of land between Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon. Of all the wine regions within the hexagon, Sud-Ouest is possibly the most variegated and hence extremely difficult to categorise. At times, it resembles more of an umbrella term than a clearly delimited region.
Sud-Ouest can be roughly divided into 5 subregions. First, the Dordogne subregion in the north neighbouring Bordeaux (with AOCs such as Bergerac, Côtes-de-Duras, Monbazillac and Montravel) is often regarded as the satellite of Bordeaux due to similar grape varieties and wine styles. Second, the Garonne subregion in the centre (counting Cahors, Fronton and Gaillac etc) is particularly characterful for its authentic interpretation of Malbec and Négrette.
Next, the Gascogne (including, notably, Madiran AOC) and Basque in the southwestern tip (comprising Béarn, Irouléguy and Jurançon) subregions have a host of their own indigenous varieties rarely seen elsewhere. Last but not least, there is another cluster of 4 AOCs in the eastern tip, referred to simply as “Autres Régions” (literally: other regions), again dominated by indigenous varieties. To add to the conundrum, Armagnac is located right in the lower-middle part of Sud-Ouest.
Sud-Ouest is essentially a haphazard group of isolated wine-producing “islands”. Prior to the arrival of the Dutch and meteoric rise of Bordeaux wine in the 17th century, Sud-Ouest used to be a major competitor of Bordeaux. Enjoying a warmer climate than does Bordeaux, Sud-Ouest used to produce fuller wines than Bordeaux, so much so that starting from the 13th century, Bordeaux insisted that Sud-Ouest wines may be sold only after its own wines were sold out. The lack of a seaport meant that Sud-Ouest had to rely on Bordeaux for trade, with its wines taxed heavily by the shrewd Bordelais. As the industrial age dawned, railways stemming from the urban north finally reached this landlocked region.
Part of the Garonne subregion in the centre, Fronton (formerly Côtes-du-Frontonnais) is situated in the north of Toulouse. This hilly appellation is renowned for its Négrette-based red and rosé wines. Négrette (literally: little black one) is noted for its high tannins, relatively low acidity, rich colour and fruity profile. An offspring of the Cypriot variety Mavro, it was reportedly brought back to France by the Knights Templar (officially: Poor Fellow-Soldiers of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon) during the Crusades.

Château Bouissel Classic 2009
A blend of Négrette, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Reddish black with carmine-rosewood rim, the fragrant nose offers black cherry, damson, clove, cocoa and violet. With lively acidity and rich tannins, the potent palate delivers red cherry, plum, black pepper, tobacco and game. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the juicy entry continues through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.

Château Bouissel le Bouissel 2007
A blend of Négrette, Syrah and Malbec. Reddish black with purple-rosewood rim, the aromatic nose presents bilberry, black cherry, nutmeg, clove, cocoa and wild mushroom. With generous acidity and chewy tannins, the palate furnishes red cherry, plum, liquorice, allspice, sous bois and sandalwood. Full-bodied at 13%, the dense entry persists through a rounded mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

To be continued…

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages