A culinary symphony of north and south at MGM Macau: two masters, one memorable feast

Li Xiaolin and Li Qiang

In the rarefied world of fine Chinese dining, where tradition is currency and precision is dogma, the collaborative feast is a high-wire act. It is a gamble that far too often results in a cacophony of clashing styles.

So, it is with immense pleasure and a sense of profound wonder that one reports on a dinner that defied the odds. This was not a mere meal; it was a masterpiece of harmony, a testament to the power of mutual respect between two culinary titans: Li Xiaolin of Beijing and Li Qiang of Shenzhen.

The evening’s magic was born from a “north-south dialogue.” On one side, Li Xiaolin, the second-generation heir to the legendary Li Family Private Cuisine, a culinary legacy that traces its lineage to the Imperial Kitchens of the Qing Dynasty. His ancestor, Li Shunqing, a minister of the Imperial Household, transcribed the palace’s closely guarded recipes from memory upon his retirement.

Li Xiaolin upholds this heritage with a reverential commitment to “precision, premium ingredients, and meticulous technique.” His work has earned Michelin stars and a lifetime achievement award from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Opposite him stood Li Qiang, a protégé of the late, great Lin Ziran, a deity of modern Teochew cuisine.

Here, the philosophy is different: a laser focus on ingredient integrity and knife skills, coaxing out the purest essence of the sea and land. Li Qiang’s stewardship of Shenzhen’s Dayuanlin earned him accolades from gourmands, and his recent induction into the Forbes China “Chef 30” list solidifies his status as a global ambassador for Chaozhou-Swatow cuisine.

The result of their union was a “Feast of Two Cities,” a menu that sang with the elegant restraint of the imperial north and the soulful clarity of the coastal south.

The overture was a study in contrasts: a delicate, cold-infused jasmine tea that cleansed the palate, followed by an amuse-bouche trio of shredded chicken, silky foie gras, and a piquant vegetable that was a masterclass in texture. The first act continued with a classic Peking-style meat wrapped in lotus leaf pancakes, the umami richness perfectly complemented by the translucent “emerald tofu” and a shimmering crystal-skinned dumpling.

A glass of Ningxia sparkling Riesling cut through the richness like a cool breeze, a prelude to the main event.
And what a main event it was. A supremely clear Teochew cuttlefish soup was a study in elegant simplicity—a whisper of the ocean.

Then, the feast proper began. A “Royal Supreme Abalone,” luxuriously fat and tender, was paired with a Martell XXO Cognac, its woody notes a powerful, yet perfectly matched, counterpoint to the sea’s sweetness.

A “Peking-style Lobster” followed, the sweet, bouncy flesh coated in a robust sauce that spoke of northern bravado, which was then masterfully tempered by a cleansing cup of Dancong oolong tea—a brilliant palate interlude.
The meal reached its zenith with a “Pig’s Trotter and Eight Delicacies Rice.” This was the pièce de résistance: each grain of rice infused with the gelatinous richness of trotter and the deep, savoury notes of abalone, sea cucumber, and mushroom.

It was a symphony of textures and flavours that demanded respect. Its companion, a 2010 Dongqu Shaoxing huangjiu, was a revelation. With its amber hue and aged, mellow warmth, it was the perfect, introspective partner to the dish’s grandeur.

This feast transcended gastronomy. It was a journey through history, a conversation across cultures, and a testament to the artistry that emerges when two masters share a single vision.

The feast ended, but the melody of that perfect, fleeting harmony lingers on. It was, quite simply, the taste of two cities, and the very definition of human joy.