Due to economic and historic reasons, mighty Bordeaux often overshadows its neighbouring areas such as Bergerac, Buzet, Côtes-du-Marmandais and Monbazillac. The one bastion that Bordeaux fails to conquer, it seems, is Cahors, and for good reasons.
Cahors as a wine region is older than Bordeaux. Winemaking therein began in the mid-1st century BC, around the time of Caesar and Pompey. In 96 AD, Emperor Domitian ordered a general vine pull in France so as to make space for cereal production. The imperial order was later revoked by Emperor Probus in 280 AD. From the Middle Ages to the fin de siècle, Cahors was a prime wine-producing region, whose reputation spread not just within France but also around Europe. It was revered for its vin noir, a full-on powerful wine produced by heating musts, which was exported to as far as England and Russia.
The stellar quality of Cahors has much to do with its unique terroir: situated equidistant from the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts, Cahors has a combination of continental, maritime and Mediterranean influences. Its best vineyards, meanwhile, are often located on gravel terraces around the Lot and limestone plateaus, enjoying excellent exposure. Since time immemorial, Cahors has been renowned as the Malbec (also known as Côt Noir or Auxerrois) specialist; indeed, so confident is Cahors with its trump card that only 30% of Merlot and Tannat may be blended to make Cahors AOC, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are not allowed. Back in the days when Bordeaux was still lacking in body and colour, it was Malbec from Cahors that provided the necessary power and richness.
Established in 1830 and remaining in family hands since, Jean-Luc Baldès is of the leading estates in Cahors, producing wines with unique heritage: the Clos Triguedina (from Occitan “Me trigo de dina”, meaning “I am longing for dinner”) series, a reference to the pilgrimage route of Saint James’ Way, produced in the vin de lune style, with manual harvest in the small hours, practised by medieval peasants trying to pay less tax; the monumental Probus and the New Black Wine.
Jean-Luc Baldès Clos Triguedina Blanc 2012
A blend of Viognier and Chardonnay from IGT Comté Tolosan. Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the expressive nose offers grapefruit, pear, apricot and rock salt. Supported by vibrant acidity and steely minerality, the corpulent palate delivers lemon peel, starfruit, sweet ginger and oyster shell. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the frank entry carries onto a spicy mid-palate, leading to a cleansing finish.
Jean-Luc Baldès Clos Triguedina Probus 2012
A single-varietal Malbec from Cahors AOC, one of the finest samples on earth. Reddish black with dark carmine-Tyrian purple rim, the regal nose exudes prune and dried plum for fruits, enriched with black olive, spice box, dark chocolate, sandalwood and charcoal. Buttressed by abundant acidity, tasty tannins and elegant minerality, the majestic palate oozes damson and dried bilberry for fruits, augmented by liquorice, clove, black coffee, cigar box and crushed rock. Full-bodied at 14%, the opulent entry evolves into a scented mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.
Jean-Luc Baldès Clos Triguedina Rosé 2012
A single-varietal Malbec from IGT Comté Tolosan. Translucent ruby with luminous rosso corsa-Venetian red reflex, the floral nose effuses cranberry, strawberry, white cherry and rose petal. Underpinned by vivacious acidity and traces of tannins, the refreshing palate supplies redcurrant, rosehip, Lady Grey tea and geranium. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the dainty entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a juicy finish.
Jean-Luc Baldès l’Or du Clos Triguedina 2011
A botrytised single-varietal Chenin Blanc from IGT Comté Tolosan. Bright amber with luminous copper reflex, the decadent nose radiates lychee, crystallised clementine, cinnamon, marzipan and green tea. Braced by joyous acidity and palpable minerality, the indulgent palate emanates nectarine, crystallised mandarin, sweet ginger, butterscotch and wet stone. Fully sweet, viscously textured and full-bodied at 13%, the tangy entry persists through a spiced mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. By Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the charm of Cahors and Malbec, contact Mr Teng Li; W: www.jlbaldes.com; E: tengli@jlbaldes.com
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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