Food | DEVASTATINGLY SENSUAL

(from left to right) Dominic, Vivien, Richard stuart

It’s known in the world of winemaking that Daniel Baron, Director of Winemaking for Silver Oak and Twomey Cellars, does not make ordinary Californian wine. That is because he is no ordinary American. In fact, he is an American who has worked in seven different chateaux in France over the course of six months during the 1980s.
What’s even more impressive is that back then, he landed a job at the legendary Chateau Petrus, and was befriended by owner Christian Moueix, winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, cellar master Jean Veyssiere and his son Francois, who taught him how “history, quality and tradition are intertwined with the practical aspects of winemaking.” Eventually, it was Daniel’s performance at Petrus in the legendary 1982 vintage that led Christian Moueix to put him in charge of his new winery in Napa Valley, Dominus Estate.
In the 1990s, it was Justin Meyer of Silver Oak Cellars who hired Daniel Baron to work for Silver Oak. After Justin retired, Daniel continued to be instrumental in the world of winemaking and in the creation of Twomey Cellars in 1999, another one of the Duncan family’s wineries after Silver Oak.
Although Daniel Baron himself did not fly to Macau all the way from the United States, the wines are here. And on a wonderful evening, it is indeed a privilege to be sitting in Galaxy Macau’s signature Italian restaurant, Terrazza, appreciating Silver Oak and Twomey’s wine paired with dishes prepared by its head chef, Dominic Orsini. After a glass of Pinot noir and Sauvignon blanc, it is a bottle of Merlot that catches my attention.
The 2009 Twomey Soda Canyon Vineyard Merlot displays great depth and concentration. With its fruit sourced from the Soda Canyon Vineyard in the southeastern Napa Valley, where rolling hills of volcanic soils are tightly planted with French Merlot clones, the wine has a dark garnet color. Aromas of black cherry compote, nutmeg, roasted coffee and violets seem to burst from the glass. The bright entry mellows down to a soft, velvety mid-palate replete with flavors of berries, roasted coffee and dark chocolate, beautifully sensual.
Daniel Baron’s vision is to create a world-class California Merlot using the labor-intensive soutirage traditionnel method that he learned in Pomerol. Soutirage traditionnel is a French term that refers to moving wine from one barrel to another just by using gravity, with no pump involved. The method is elaborate, yet it helps to smooth the tannins and softens the wine. In my opinion, the incredible result makes it totally worthwhile.