The Shades of Green III

(Continued from “The Shades of Green II” on 9 January 2015)

For its viticultural diversity and outstanding price-quality ratio, Vinho Verde is no doubt one of the most underrated regions in Portugal. Fans of Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc etc – indeed those who like plenty of acidity in their whites – would easily come to appreciate the beauty of Alvarinho, the flagship variety in Vinho Verde.
Similar to the aforecited noble varieties, Alvarinho is highly aromatic, offers ample acidity and can be made into still, petillant and sparkling wines. It is often said that Alvarinho and other Vinho Verde wines should be consumed within perhaps three years of bottling, but the finer samples are entirely capable of holding up for a decade or more, turning from citrine or lemon yellow to golden or jonquil in colour during the process. Alvarinho’s perceived lack of cellaring ability, coupled with the relatively large production in Vinho Verde, could be the reason why prices remain so attractive, rarely if ever reaching MOP$250 per bottle in retail.
In addition, whereas noble varieties such as Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Chenin Blanc tend to appear as single varietal wines, Alvarinho would appear to be more affable, happily blending with other local varieties such as Arinto (also known as Pedernã, especially in Vinho Verde), Avesso, Loureiro (Loureira in Galician) and Trajadura (Treixadura in Galician), resulting in an array of blends.

  Infusa Escolha 2013
A blend of Alvarinho, Arinto and Loureiro from Vinho Verde DOC. Light lemon-yellow with pale citrine reflex, the refreshing nose offers lemon Tianjin pear and apricot for fruits, decorated by cut grass. Boasting crispy acidity and slight petillance, the energetic palate delivers lime peel, calamansi, green apple and grapefruit. Light-bodied at 11%, the citrusy entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a clean finish.

Infusa Grande Escolha 2013
A blend of Alvarinho and Arinto from Minho VR. Bright lemon-yellow with pastel citrine reflex, the tropical nose provides grapefruit, guava, pineapple and melon. Possessing generous acidity and slight petillance, the fruit-driven palate supplies calamansi, green apple, greengage and fig. Medium-light bodied at 12.5%, the uplifting entry carries onto a tangy mid-palate, leading to a bright finish.

Infusa Rosé NV
A blend of indigenous red varieties from Vinho Verde DOC. Bright Venetian red with rich rosso corsa reflex, the fragrant nose presents rose hip, white strawberry and raspberry for fruits, adorned with geranium. Retaining plentiful acidity and traces of tannins, the succulent palate furnishes cranberry, redcurrant, jujube and pomegranate. Medium-bodied at 10%, the floral entry persists through a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a jouyous finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the charm of Vinho Verde, contact Mr Pedro Lobo of Palatium Fine Wines; W: www.palatiumwines.com;
E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages