Wine has been inseparable from the Christian faith since the institution of the Eucharist during the Last Supper. Notwithstanding the East-West Schism, both Roman Catholicism and Eastern Orthodoxy reserve a special place for wine in their liturgy. In the Old World at least, areas with a majority or plurality of Roman Catholics or Orthodox Christians are more likely wine-producing regions, unless prohibited by climate, geography or policies.
South Africa is a salient exception, not because it belongs to the New World, but because its viticultural history and tradition originated from Dutch and French Protestants. Founded in 1602, the Dutch East India Company landed in modern-day Cape Town in 1652 and created the Cape Colony. To prevent scurvy – a common yet fatal disease back then – amongst its sailors along the lucrative trade routes, the Dutch East India Company brought along vines and made wines in Constantia, now a district south of Cape Town, with the first vintage harvested in 1659.
Subsequent to Le Roi-Soleil Sun King Louis XIV’s Edict of Fontainebleau of 1685, which abolished all legal recognition of Protestantism in France, French Huguenots began emigrating en masse, bringing with them winemaking knowledge and skills, giving a vital boost to the infant South African viticulture initiated by their Dutch brethren.
Badly hit by the phylloxera plague in the 1860s, the misfortunes of South African viticulture continued through much of the 20th century, during which it suffered from both domestic wine lakes due to over-production and international boycotts in protest against Apartheid. With the end of Apartheid, the advent of globalisation and not least the flying winemakers, South African wine has been on the ascendant in recent decades, and the country is now one of the top 10 largest producers worldwide.
Larger than France and Spain combined in total area, South Africa has a wide spectrum of climates and terroirs, from regions as cool as Burgundy to those as warm as Western Australia, and most of its wine regions are situated along the coastlines of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Created in 1973, the South African Wine of Origin system is based on the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, but focuses more on geographical location – from region to districts to wards – than grape varieties.
Stellenrust Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2011
Sourced from 47-year-old vines grown in a single vineyard in Bottelary Hills of Stellenbosch. Fermented with natural yeast for up to 3 months and matured on lees for 6 months, totally 9 months in French and Hungarian oak. Rich lemon-yellow with bright golden reflex, the luscious nose offers pear, apricot, pistachio, crème Chantilly and acacia. Braced by vibrant acidity and palpable minerality, the opulent palate delivers lemon peel, grapefruit, mirabelle, butterscotch and Pekoe white tea. Full bodied at 14%, the composed entry evolves into an expressive mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish.
Stellenrust Peppergrinder’s Shiraz 2010
Sourced from 48-year-old vines grown in a single vineyard in the Golden Triangle of Stellenbosch. Cool-macerated for 24 hours prior to fermentation with Rhône yeast and on lees for up to 14 days in stainless steel, followed by up to 24 months in French (95%) and American (5%) oak. Dark garnet with luminous cardinal-carmine rim, the scented nose effuses bilberry, plum confit, spice box, dark chocolate, rooibos tea and tobacco. Buttressed by abundant acidity and dense tannins, the redolent palate emanates damson, dried black cherry, black pepper, espresso, game and cigar ash. Full-bodied at 14%, fleshy entry carries onto a creamy mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.
Stellenrust Chenin d’Muscat Noble Late Harvest 2010
Sourced from 40-year-old Chenin Blanc and 60-year-old Muscat d’Alexandrie vines grown in Bottelary Hills of Stellenbosch. Harvested in May after the first winter rain, botrytised berries were crushed with skin contact, separately fermented with natural yeast and on lees in barrel for up to 3 weeks, followed by 12 months in French oak. Intense golden with metallic reflex, the scented nose radiates bergamot, apricot, crystallised grapefruit, cinnamon, butterscotch and ginger flower. Supported by generous acidity and noticeable minerality, the lavish palate oozes lime, nectarine, crystallised tangerine, vanilla spice, crème brûlée and marzipan. Full sweet, viscously textured and full-bodied at 11%, the citrusy entry transforms into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a rounded finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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