The Siamese Adventure

Situated in the western half of the Indochinese Peninsula, the Kingdom of Thailand covers some 510,000 sqkm, slightly larger than Spain, and has a population of about 68 million, slightly more populous than France. Bordering clockwise Laos to the east, Cambodia to the southeast, Malaysia to the south and Myanmar to the west, Thailand sits between the 5th and 20th parallels north, indeed on a par with the Caribbean rum-producing countries in the western hemisphere.
Formerly known as Siam, Thailand is the only country in the entire Southeast Asia not to be colonised by European powers. Under French colonial rule, Vietnam began to produce wine as early as in the 19th century. Thailand, meanwhile, did not begin to grow table grapes at any significant scale until after WWII, and vitis vinifera was introduced just a few decades ago.
Due to its full-on tropical climate with substantial humidity and rainfall, rot and fungal diseases are a constant threat to the vineyards in Thailand, and the lack of temperature variation – both diurnal and seasonal – makes life difficult for vitis vinifera. With modern technology, rigorous sorting and careful selection of sites with microclimates, especially in hilly areas, challenges posed by the Thai climate can be mitigated, although not completely negated.
Probably due to climate, Thailand and India have a rather similar portfolio of grape varieties, in that Chenin Blanc and Shiraz are the stand-out stars, supported by a host of varieties mainly from Southern Europe such as Colombard, Malaga Blanc and Viognier for white, and Grenache, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese and Tempranillo for red.
In most wine-producing countries, oenotourism occurs when tourism tags along viticulture; in Thailand, on the contrary, it would appear that viticulture is hitching a hike on the country’s well-established tourism infrastructure. Wine excursions and tours in Thailand are on the rise, combing with the various features of Thai tourism.
Situated along the 14th parallel north, indeed 150km northeast of capital Bangkok, PB’s Khao Yai vineyards are near the Khao Yai National Park. The heavily vegetated and wooded national park, the 3rd largest in Thailand, is naturally cooler. This, coupled with PB Khao Yai’s careful selection of elevated sites, makes it possible for good grapes to be produced.

 PB Khao Yai Chenin Blanc Reserve 2013
A single-varietal Chenin Blanc fermented on lees in French oak casks. Pale lemon-yellow with light sunshine reflex, the exotic nose offers lime peel, pomelo and crushed rock. With ample acidity, the tropical palate delivers lemon peel, grapefruit and dried herbs. Medioum-full bodied at 13.5%, the fleshy entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a herbaceous finish.

PB Khao Yai Shiraz Reserve 2011
A single-varietal Shiraz matured for 18 months in French casks. Rich ruby with cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose presents cranberry, red cherry and rose. With sufficient acidity and rich tannins, the potent palate supplies bilberry, black olive and smoke. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the tart entry persists through a herbal mid-palate, leading to a clean finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages