The Southern Kaleidoscope III

(Continued from “The Southern Kaleidoscope II” on 1 July 2016)

The wine classification systems of Burgundy and Germany are notoriously complicated, but perhaps necessarily so, considering their hierarchical structure as well as numerous terroirs, styles and designations. With a closer look, however, Languedoc-Roussillon’s wine classification system is no less complicated, for this is the single largest wine region of France, and its wine-related legislations and regulations are constantly evolving.
The all-encompassing Pays d’Oc IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) designation is a useful one for producers and consumers alike, but Languedoc-Roussillon as a region slowly but gradually shifts away from quantity and towards quality, multi-level subdivisions have begun to take shape, both geographically and hierarchically.
Setting aside the Spanish-influenced Roussillon in the south and the now Rhône-affiliated Costières-de-Nîmes in the northeast, Languedoc-proper consists of three major AOC areas: Coteaux-du-Languedoc, which includes the up-and-coming districts of Terrasses-du-Larzac, Grés-de-Montpellier, Pézenas, Faugères, Saint-Chinian and La Clape; Minervois, with its Minervois-la-Livinière considered the finest; and Corbières, a subregion as extensive as many a wine region.
An AOC since 1985, Corbières is the single largest appellation of Languedoc-
Roussillon, responsible for roughly 40% of the region’s aggregate production. With more than 12,000ha under vine, Corbières is merely 15% smaller than Alsace in terms of vineyard area. Due to its diverse climatic conditions and soil compositions, the massive Corbières AOC can be further divided into 11 districts, and Corbières-Boutenac is generally considered to be the first amongst equals.
An AOC since 2005, Corbières-Boutenac is renowned for its infertile, limestone-rich and free-draining soil, which forces vine roots to dig ever deeper in search of water and nutrients, which are conducive to the quality of wine. Like the larger Corbières in general, Corbières-Boutenac a specialist of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
In recent years, the unofficial title of Grands Crus du Languedoc has gained some traction. Aiming to include the best wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, the said title is nonetheless not officially recognised by Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), the guardian of the French AOC system, but it does show that the region has come a long way in terms of quality.

 Château Grand Moulin Corbières Terres Rouges 2009
A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache Noir, macerated for 42 days and matured for 12 months in French oak barrels. Reddish black with carmine-rosewood rim, the heady potent nose offers bilberry, damson, coffea arabica, clove, cigar and cedarwood. With generous acidity and firm tannins, the spicy palate delivers black cherry, prune, liquorice, allspice, dark chocolate and game. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the broad entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

Château Grand Moulin Corbières-Boutenac 2008
A blend of 60% Mourvèdre and 40% Carignan, fermented for 35 days and matured for 12 months in French oak barrels. Reddish black with burgundy-carmine rim, the brooding nose presents cassis, black cherry, liquorice, cocoa, tobacco and fine oak. With abundant acidity and ripe tannins, the saturated palate supplies red cherry, plum, clove, black pepper, caffè mocha and wild mushroom. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the dense entry persists through a structured mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

To be continued…

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages