The Norman Orchard

If the world of brandy is a clan, grape brandy in its various forms would be the patriarch, having for long occupied centre stage and overshadowing its poor cousin pomace brandy and its distant relative fruit brandy. The vast majority of grape brandy sees barrel maturation, the question is how brief or extensive. For pomace brandy and fruit brandy, however, barrel maturation is more of an option, not obligation. Pomace brandy, with or without barrel maturation, is appreciated for its candid flavours and rustic charm.
Fruit brandy can be – and is – made with a huge range of fruits, e.g. berries, orchard fruits and stone fruits. The French-speaking and Germans-speaking areas produce a particularly wide array of clear, unaged fruit brandies, referred to as eau-de-vie and Obstbrand respectively. Of the few fruit brandies that receive barrel maturation, Calvados is one of the most prominent.
Similar to Cognac and Armagnac, Calvados is both the name of the spirit and of the area. Whereas Cognac and Armagnac are the names of historic regions that no longer exist for administrative purpose, Calvados is a département of France, established since the French Revolution. Before 1 January 2016, Calvados was 1 of the 3 départements of Lower Normandy (Basse-Normandie). Since 1 January 2016, Basse-Normandie and its sibling Upper Normandy (Haute-Normandie), comprising 2 départements, merged and became one région (region) – Normandy (Normandie).
Possessing some of the finest orchards in Europe, Normandy has been producing apples and pears as well as cider and perry for well over a millennium. With the invention and propagation of distillation since the 12th century, Calvados has been produced since the mid-16th century. Theoretically, Calvados can be produced in Normandy, parts of Brittany (Bretagne) and Pays de la Loire. In practise, however, production largely confined to Lower Normandy.
Some 200 varieties of apples – ranging from sweet to tart and bitter – are permitted in the production of Calvados; any Calvados is likely to make use of dozens of varieties. After harvest, the apples are pressed and fermented into cider, then distilled: either twice in traditional alembic (“alambic” is French spelling) still, not unlike single malt whisky, or once in continuous column still, similar to grain whisky. The number of years the spirit then spends in oak barrels determines its grades: 2 years for Fine / Trois Étoiles / Trois Pommes; 3 years for Réserve / Vieux; 4 years for Vieille Réserve / VO / VSOP; 6 years for Napoléon / XO / Extra / Hors d’Age / Age Inconnu. (NB: the number of years is based on the youngest component in the blend.)
Before 1942, Calvados used to have a total of 10 appellations, but the number has since been consolidated into 3, subsequent to reforms in 1984 and 1997. Representing 70% of total production, Calvados is the basic level. Stricter and more prestigious, Calvados Pays d’Auge constitutes 25% of total production. Occupying less than 5% of total production, Calvados Domfrontais is a characterful category, which requires the use of pears (at least 30%).

Boulard XO Calvados Pays d’Auge
Translucent tangerine with amber-tawny reflex, the nose is tangy and vibrant, effusing dried apple, apple crumble, cider vinegar and orchard blossom. With a suave mouthfeel, the palate is expressive and fruity, emanating apple pie, toffee apple, forest honey and Applewood. Medium-full bodied at 40%, the pleasing entry continues through a layered mid-palate, leading to a tart finish.

Boulard products are available at various supermarkets and duty-free outlets.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages