The Danish Connection

For years, Cortes de Cima has been hailed as the poster boy of enterprise and innovation of Alentejo, possibly the most dynamic and progressive wine-producing region of Portugal. With hindsight, the introduction of Syrah some 20 years ago may well be a watershed moment, but as with most things in life, old habits die hard, and changes never come about without opposition.
In the late 19th century, a 16-year-old Francisco Correia Sarmento sailed from Santa Cruz da Graciosa of the Azores – an Autonomous Region of Portugal, indeed an archipelago consisting of 9 volcanic islands – to Massachusetts and then California, where he settled down and married an English-American woman. Three generations later, Carrie was born. Some 100 years after Francisco Correia Sarmento first reached the United States, Hans, a Danish palm oil engineer based in Malaysia, met and wed Carrie.
Looking for adventure and their ideal lifestyle, Hans and Carrie Jorgensen reached arrived at the Vidigueira sub-region of Alentejo in 1988, some 100km off the Atlantic coast. Back then, Altentejean viticulture was a stronghold of conservatism and traditionalism. When the Jorgensen planted their first vines in 1991 at their newly acquired Cortes de Cima, they decided to use certain grape varieties – notably Syrah – and methods that were not in line with local customs, which dated back to pre-Roman times.
Cortes de Cima is nothing less than revolutionary in taking Altentejean wines forward. Portugal, and Alentejo in particular, has a long tradition of making “field blend” wines, with the time-old joke that many winemakers did not even know what varieties were grown in their vineyards. Going against the tide, Cortes de Cima was one of the pioneers of single-varietal wines in Alentejo, as well as amongst the first estates to make outstanding wines at the Vinho Regional (VR) rather than Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) level. This is, mutatis mutandis, “Super Alentejean”.
Since their first vintage in 1996, Cortes de Cima has gone on to achieve numerous prizes on the international stage year after year. Danish idealism and American progressivism aside, Cortes de Cima is at the same time very Portuguese for making innovative blends. In their 400ha estate, of which 140ha are under vine and 50ha planted with olive trees, an extra 90ha produce cork, holm oaks, pine and carob.

Cortes de Cima Chaminé Branco 2014
A blend of 37% Verdelho, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Antão Vaz and 15% Viognier. Luminous citrine with light golden reflex, the summery nose offers tangerine peel, lemon, apricot and wet stone. Anchored by energetic acidity and clean minerality, the expressive palate delivers lime peel, grapefruit, nectarine and rock salt. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the fresh entry carries onto a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.

Cortes de Cima Tinto 2011
A blend of 35% Aragonez, 35% Syrah, 13% Touriga Nacional, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Alicante Bouschet and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet with cardinal-rosewood rim, the concentrate nose furnishes black cherry, mulberry, clove, cocoa and violet. Buttressed by abundant acidity, ripe tannins and clear minerality, the saturated palate provides cassis, damson, nutmeg, tobacco and rose petal. Full-bodied at 14%, the dense entry persists through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a compelling finish.

Cortes de Cima Chaminé Tinto 2013
A blend of 40% Aragonez, 25% Syrah, 20% Touriga Nacional, 10% Alicante Bouschet and 5% Trincadeira. Bright garnet with cardinal-crimson rim, the affable nose presents raspberry, red cherry, spice box, tobacco leaf and sandalwood. Braced by generous acidity, rich tannins and saline minerality, the lush palate supplies black cherry, plum, allspice, game and geranium. Fill-bodied at 13.5%, the fruit-driven entry continues through a rounded mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.

Cortes de Cima Reserva 2011
A blend of 40% Aragonez, 35% Syrah, 15% Touriga Nacional and 10% Petit Verdot. Reddish black with carmine-purple rim, the intense nose reveals damson, dried cherry, clove, dark chocolate and crushed rock. Underpinned by bounteous acidity, tasty tannins and structured minerality, the powerful palate imparts bilberry, prune, peppercorn, caffè ristretto and charcoal. Full-bodied at 14%, the imposing entry evolves into a nuanced mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Available at Grand Wine Cellar; W: www.gwc.com.hk; E: [email protected]; T: +852 3695 2389

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages