The Sindhu Revival

Home to one of the four cradles of civilisation, India has a viticultural history which can be traced back to the 4th millennium BC, when vines were introduced via ancient Persia. In the 2nd and 1st millennia BC, known in Indian history as the Vedic period, the Aryans were believed to be wine lovers. During the dynastic period that was to follow, wine was the preferred drink of the higher classes, whereas grain-based alcohol was commonly consumed by the general populace.
The 16th century was an interesting, indeed contrasting, time for Indian viticulture. On the one hand, the Islamic Mughal Empire – whose rulers were essentially tukified Mongols who would have been familiar with the kumis (fermented horse milk) – curbed viticulture and winemaking on religious grounds. On the other hand, the Christian Portuguese settlers brought with them vines and winemaking know-how to India, and began making fortified wines in what would later become Portuguese India. Subsequent to the Seven Years’ War, which Winston Churchill considered as the first world war, British influence in India became increasingly strong, and it was under the British Raj that commercial viticulture began in regions such as Baramati, Kashmir and Surat.
India was badly hit by the phylloxera plague in the late 19th century, but it was the prohibition movement, prevalent in many parts of the world in the early 20th century, that condemned Indian viticulture to obscurity for decades to come. Observant Hindus not only avoid meat in general, but were also against tobacco and alcohol, the last of which could be associated with colonialism. After declaring itself independent, the Indian government wasted no time in implementing prohibitionist measures, some of which still exist, especially in less developed areas.
With the advent of globalisation, Indian viticulture began to bud in the 80s and 90s thanks to policy change and investment. Both production and consumption of wine in India have seen robust growth in the 1st decade of the 21st century, driven mainly by the burgeoning middle class.

Nira Valley Harmony Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Delicate lemon-lime with pastel sunshine reflex, the nose is lifted and novel, offering pomelo peel and guava for fruits, imbued with turmeric and cut grass. Braced by active acidity, the palate is exotic and spicy, delivering lemon peel and starfruit for fruits, supplemented by fresh herbs and white smoke. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the tangy entry carries into a tropical mid-palate, leading to a palate-cleansing finish.

Nira Valley Harmony Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Dark garnet with cardinal-purple rim, the nose is expressive and fragrant, effusing cassis, black cherry and prune for fruits, enriched with dark chocolate and fragrant oak. Maintained by lively acidity and ample tannins, the palate is herbal and smoky, providing redcurrant, red cherry, damson for fruits, infused with bouquet garni and tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the fruit-driven entry transforms into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a dry finish.

Nira Valley Harmony Shiraz 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Deep garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is aromatic and rich, emanating prune and dried blackberry for fruits, augmented by cumin, smoked bacon and geranium. Sustained by energetic acidity and fresh tannins, the palate is fleshy and juicy, supplying cranberry and red cherry for fruits, complemented by dried herbs, roasted coffee and leather. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the fruity entry continues through a dynamic mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To be continued…

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Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages