The Southern Kaleidoscope II

(Continued from “The Southern Kaleidoscope” on 17 June 2016)

By production volume the single largest wine region in France, Languedoc-Roussillon produces more than twice as much wine as the second-placed Bordeaux and accounts for up 30 percent of national production. Situated at the central tip of the Latin Arch, Languedoc-Roussillon stretches from Nîmes – neighbouring the Rhône region – in the east to the Franco-Spanish border in the southwest.
It is always difficult, and often unhelpful, to generalise wine regions as huge as Languedoc-Roussillon. In broad strokes, the Languedoc part in the east is very much French midi in character, whereas the Roussillon part in the southwest is more Spanish-Catalan in style, both culturally and viticulturally.
Viticulture and winemaking were probably introduced to Languedoc-Roussillon by the ancient Greeks in the 5th century BC. From Late Antiquity to the Early Modern period, Languedoc-Roussillon wine was highly regarded throughout Europe for its quality and supposed health effects. During both World Wars, Languedoc-Roussillon wine was part of daily ration for French troops.
Somewhat counterintuitively, the industrial revolution and the advent of the railway in the 19th century were detrimental rather than beneficial to Languedoc-Roussillon wine. As rural populations migrated to urban centres for work, the working people demanded inexpensive wine. Once set in motion, the trend continued all the way into the 2nd half of the 20th century. The supply glut problem of Languedoc-Roussillon wine came to be known as wine lake. Even today, by average and median prices, Languedoc-Roussillon wine remains among the lowest in France.
With the introduction of the Vin de Pays classification in 1979, replanting of vineyards and yield reduction, the region is no longer in mortal danger of losing out to price-competitive wines from the New World. Languedoc-Roussillon wine has seen huge improvement in the last quarter-century, even if not across the board, then at least in multiple centres covering all colours and styles of wine, be it sparkling, white, rosé, red or vin doux naturel. Part of the Coteaux du Languedoc subregion of Languedoc-Roussillon, the sub-appellation of Pic Saint-Loup is no doubt a bright spot in this massive region. At its best, Languedoc-Roussillon can offer first-class wines at unbeatable prices.

To be continued…

Clos des Augustins Les Bambins 2010
A blend of 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre sourced from low-yielding vines (merely 35hl/ha) in Pic Saint-Loup, rigorously sorted and aged for 9 months in oak. Inky garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the vigorous nose offers prune, dried bilberry, dark chocolate, game and oaky smoke. With vibrant acidity and rich tannins, the potent palate delivers damson, dried plum, allspice, caffè espresso and garrigue. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the dense entry carries onto a spicy mid-palate, leading to a herbal finish.

Clos des Augustins Sourire d’Odile 2008
A blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Grenache sourced from low-yielding vines (merely 20hl/ha) in Pic Saint-Loup, rigorously sorted and aged for 15 months in new barrels. Reddish black with carmine-purple rim, the aromatic nose presents cassis, black cherry, clove, cocoa, sandalwood and violet. With vivacious acidity and juicy tannins, the fleshy palate supplies blackberry, plum, liquorice, allspice, coffea arabica and tobacco leaf. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fruit-packed entry evolves into a piquant mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages