The Liberal Outlook

Situated in southern Pauillac close to the Gironde, Haut-Bages Libéral (Cinquième Cru) is an estate that consistently punches above its weight. Planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, both averaging 40 years, its 30ha vineyards are right next to those of Latour (Premier Cru) and Pichon-Longueville (Deuxième Cru), and the soil composition is of Guntz gravels on clayey and limestone substrate.
Curiously contradictory to the pomp and circumstance often associated with Bordeaux is the name Haut-Bages Libéral, which has two roots. First, the estate is located on the heights of Bages, a large plateau between Pauillac and Saint-Julien, hence Haut-Bages (literally: high Bages). Second, the estate was owned by the Libéral family in 18th century. Renowned for the quality of its wines in 19th century, the estate was ranked in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 during the reign of Napoléon III. Thanks in part to the interesting surname, the family was often invited to the table of liberal parties around the world.
But the estate is anything but liberal in winemaking. With the arrival of the Villars family in 1983, the estate began to regain its former glory lost due to such forces majeures as the phylloxera plague, Great Depression and both World Wars. Now at the helm is Claire Villars-Lurton, who not only undertook an overhaul of winemaking tools, but also geared the estate towards organic and biodynamic viticulture. In addition to Haut-Bages Libéral, she is the owner of Ferrière (Deuxième Cru) and La Gurge (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur), as well as co-owner of Domeyne (Cru Bourgeois) along with her husband Gonzague Lurton, himself owner of Durfort-Vivens (Deuxième Cru).
With berries entirely hand-picked, Haut-Bages Libéral’s namesake grand vin is typically matured in French oak barrels – 40% new – for 16-18 months. Offering power, structure and ageworthiness at very attractive prices, Haut-Bages Libéral is one of the shrewd buys from Pauillac. As for seconds vins, the estate produces La Chapelle de Bages, La Fleur de Haut-Bages Libéral and Le Pauillac de Haut-Bages Libéral.

Available via multiple channels – wine merchants, hotels and restaurants etc.

  Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2008
A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is ample and aromatic, exuding concentrated crème de cassis and damson confit for fruits, intertwined with clove, sous bois, sandalwood and lily. Supported by lively acidity and tasty tannins, the palate is fragrant and seething, radiating succulent red cherry and blackberry for fruits, augmented by allspice, cocoa, mocha and leather. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the fruit-driven entry carries onto an intense mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish. From the respectable 2008 vintage, further cellaring is advisable.

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2005
A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. Rich garnet with carmine-scarlet rim, the nose is haunting and profound, offering dark damson and black cherry for fruits, interwoven with eucalyptus, clove, dark chocolate and sous bois. Buttressed by vivacious acidity and developed tannins, the palate is firm and well-structured, delivering dense prune and cassis jam for fruits, supplemented by allspice, mocha, tobacco and leather. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the dynamic entry evolves into a potent mid-palate, leading to a rounded finish. From the magnificent 2005 vintage, this wine is still developing.

Château Haut-Bages Libéral 2000
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. Rich garnet with carmine-maroon rim, the nose is charming and scented, presenting ripe cassis, blueberry and red cherry for fruits, interlaced with nutmeg, cocoa and sandalwood. Underpinned by generous acidity and juicy tannins, the mature and redolent palate provides fleshy bilberry and morello cherry for fruits, complemented by allspice, coffea arabica, toasted oak and leather. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the composed entry continues through a focused mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish. From the exceptional 2000 vintage, this wine is now irresistible.

By: Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.