The Other Cabernet

Whether in life or in wine, it is never easy to be living under the shadow of an illustrious relative. Due to the dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon and the “parkerisation” of wine, it is both unfortunate and unjust that Cabernet Franc is rarely given a free hand to demonstrate what it is capable of, except perhaps in the Loire Valley, the garden of France.
DNA tests in the 1990s have convincingly proven that Cabernet Franc not only predates Cabernet Sauvignon, but it also one of the parents of the latter. Possessing more alcohol, body and colour than Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon has taken centre stage as a soprano prima donna, while Cabernet Franc has to make do with a supporting role. Back in the old days, the early ripening Cabernet Franc was often used as an insurance against the risk of Cabernet Sauvignon not ripening fully. Nowadays, Cabernet Franc is used to add complexity and finesse to the Cabernet Sauvignon – or Merlot-dominated blends.
At the AOC level, Cabernet Franc seldom constitutes a majority anywhere in Bordeaux, but is usually used to blend with either Cabernet Sauvignon in the Left Bank or Merlot in the Right Bank. However, when the third red variety of Bordeaux shines, it does so brilliantly, as in the case of Cheval Blanc (Premiers Grands Crus Classés A) and Ausone (Premiers Grands Crus Classés A).
For pure expressions of Cabernet Franc, one would have to venture north to the Loire Valley, or more precisely the appellations of Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. Under cool climate, the feminine charm of Cabernet Franc and its ageing potential become all too apparent. As an international and – one may argue – noble variety, Cabernet Franc is highly terroir-expressive, as demonstrated by Couly-Dutheil’s single vineyard gems.

   Couly-Dutheil les Chanteaux Chinon Blanc 2014
A single-varietal Chenin Blanc, sourced from vines grown on chalky soil. Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the brisk nose offers lemon peel, pomelo, Japanese pear, flint and jasmine. With piercing acidity and clean minerality, the exuberant palate delivers lime peel, grapefruit, green apple, crushed rock and daffodil. Medium-bodied at 13%, the floral entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to a fresh finish.

Couly-Dutheil René Couly Chinon Rouge 2011
A single-varietal Cabernet Franc, sourced from vines grown on silica-clay soil. Dark garnet with purple-ruby rim, the fragrant nose presents bilberry, mulberry, tomato leaf and coffee beans. With generous acidity and rich tannins, the fleshy palate supplies blackberry, cassis, salty liquorice and pencil shavings. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the dense entry continues through an energetic mid-palate, leading to a fresh finish. The Saint-Julien of the Cabernet Franc trio.

Couly-Dutheil Clos de l’Olive Chinon Rouge 2011
A single-varietal Cabernet Franc, sourced from vines grown on limestone-rich soil. Dark garnet with rim cardinal-purple rim, the perfumed nose effuses blueberry, strawberry, blackcurrant leaf and pencil shavings. With vivacious acidity and juicy tannins, the elegant palate emanates bilberry, boysenberry, salty liquorice and tobacco. Medium-bodied at 14%, the tangy entry evolves into a supple mid-palate, leading to a fresh finish. The Margaux of the Cabernet Franc trio.

Couly-Dutheil Clos de l’Echo Chinon Rouge 2011
A single-varietal Cabernet Franc, sourced from vines grown on clayey soil. Dark garnet with carmine-purple rim, the aromatic nose furnishes bilberry, blackberry, cigar box and fresh earth. With abundant acidity and tasty tannins, the profound palate provides black cherry, cassis, spice box and smoked bacon. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the potent entry persists through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a prolonged finish. The Pauillac of the Cabernet Franc trio. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the hidden gems of the Loire Valley, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages