The Cisalpine Ethos II

(Continued from “The Cisalpine Ethos” on 18 December 2015)

Revered since Roman times, Piemonte (or Piedmont in English) has always been one of the leading wine regions in the Apennine Peninsula, producing such cult names and spellbinding wines as Barolo and Barbaresco. Sandwiched between the Alps and the Mediterranean with a wide range of climatic conditions and terroirs, Piemonte is about 80% the size of Burgundy, the mighty wine region to which is it often juxtaposed with for various reasons.
Piemonte’s stellar variety, Nebbiolo is as capricious and mercurial as Pinot Noir, requiring absolute precision from vineyard to winery. A late ripening variety, it demands well-exposed slopes at moderately elevated altitudes, plenty of sunshine and rigorous yield control. Get it wrong, the end product could become a farcical melodrama. Get it right, the seemingly regimented process can result in the most sumptuous nectar, as if an often-told and highly regimented classical Roman story is set on stage in the form of opera seria by Georg Friedrich Händel – and that is the Holy Grail for many an aspiring winemaker.
If making wine is an art and discussing about it is culture, then Piedmontese wines are as profound a subject as Burgundian wines. Predestined by terroirs and accentuated by human intervention, Barolo and Barbaresco are the Italian version of battlelines over masculinity and femininity, extended from Gevrey-Chambertin vs Chambolle-Musigny and Pommard vs Volnay. Since Nebbiolo takes years if not decades to mature in bottle, the Piedmontese would rely on Barbera and Dolcetto (literally: little sweet one) for short- and mid-term enjoyment. Whereas the bold and fleshy Barbera has a particular affinity for oak, the early ripening Dolcetto, true to its name, makes delightful drinking in its youth. Depending on their exact origins and terroirs, Barbera and Dolcetto are no less terroir-expressive than Nebbiolo.
Azienda Agricola Pecchenino has remained family-owned since the early 18th century, with every generation dedicating the same amount of care to the land as the preceding one, upholding not only family pride but also Piedmontese tradition. During the past century, the estate has increased its total area under vine from 8ha to 25ha, mostly situated in Dogliani, the eponymous comune (municipality) famed for its Dolcetto, in addition to producing the Le Coste and Bussia Corsini crus of Barolo. The estate insists on organic viticulture with rigorous training and yield management but without artificial substances.

   Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi 2011
Macerated for 10 days and matured in stainless steel for 12 months. Rich garnet with cardinal-Tyrian purple rim, the nose is cordial and floral, effusing red cherry and plum for fruits, elaborated with cherry blossom and fragrant minerals. Braced by lively acidity and fresh tannins, the palate is fleshy and fruit-driven, delivering blackberry and black cherry for fruits, augmented by rose tisane and almond. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the cherry-packed entry carries onto a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a fruity finish.

Pecchenino Babera d’Alba Quass 2010
Macerated for 15 days, matured in barriques and large oak barrels for 12 months. Deep garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is fragrant and lifted, emanating cranberry, raspberry and red cherry for fruits, embellished by geranium. Buttressed by dynamic acidity and tasty tannins, the palate is rich and ripe, radiating redcurrant, black cherry and plum for fruits, adorned with cherry blossom. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the succulent entry persists through a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a flavourful finish.

Pecchenino Dogliani Superiore Sirì d’Jermu 2011
Macerated for 15 days and matured in large oak barrels for 12 months. Bright garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is floral and seductive, exuding cranberry, redcurrant and jujube for fruits, decorated by sakura. Underpinned by joyous acidity and sweet tannins, the palate is expressive and suave, revealing red cherry and plum for fruits, enriched with liquorice and allspice. Medium-bodied at 14%, the tangy entry continues through a stimulating mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Pecchenino Barolo San Giuseppe 2008
Macerated for 20 days and matured in large oak barrels for 24 months. Rich ruby with cardinal-crimson rim, the nose is perfumed and ethereal, offering raspberry and redcurrant for fruits, complemented by macchia, sandalwood, peony and white truffle. Anchored by spirited acidity and clear minerality, the palate is gracious and scented, delivering cranberry and morello cherry for fruits, supplemented by eucalyptus, Qimen tea, rose petal and smoke. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the poised entry evolves into a melodious mid-palate, leading to an endearing finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages