Situated in the northwesternmost of Portugal braving the Atlantic Ocean, the Vinho Verde region is indeed green, and in various aspects – its landscape, Portugal’s comfort food caldo verde and, of course, the adorable white wine that is perfect for summer with Asian cuisine.
The largest wine region of Portugal by both area and production, Vinho Verde is divided into 9 subregions, alphabetically Amarante, Ave, Baião, Basto, Cávado, Lima, Monção e Melgaço, Paiva and Sousa. The regions was officially demarcated in 1908, just 2 years before the Kingdom of Portugal gave way to the short-lived first Republic. Viticulture in the region was mentioned by Seneca the Younger and Pliny the Elder in as early as 1st century AD and, in the Middle Ages, monasteries and monks were pivotal to winemaking in the region, as elsewhere in Europe.
Although predominantly a white wine region, Vinho Verde does produce rosé and red wines. Most of its wines are intended to be consumed within 1 or 2 years of bottling, but the more ambitious and quality-driven producers are now pushing the boundaries with ageworthy gems. Vinho Verde wines, especially white wines, are often slightly petillant.
Reigning supreme in the region, Alvarinho could well be the next international variety. Naturally high in acidity and with pronounced minerality comparable to mighty Riesling, Alvarinho from the Monção e Melgaço subregion is highly regarded. Alvarinho and the Vinho Verde in general have yet to gain international recognition, hence their extremely competitive prices, but this could change in the near future.
Provam Côto de Mamoelas Alvarinho Espumante 2010
Translucent citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the nose is lifted and floral, effusing calamansi, green apple, Tianjin pear, lime blossom and seashell. Supported by invigorating acidity, delicate minerality and fine mousse, the palate is composed and elegant, furnishing lime peel, greengage, guava, fine lees and rock salt. Medium-bodied at 13%, the fragrant entry evolves into a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a refined finish.
Provam Varanda do Conde Alvarinho-Trajadura 2013
Light citrine with pale golden reflex, the nose is airy and refreshing, offering kumquat, sudachi and mangosteen for fruits, infused with spearmint, lime blossom and fragrant minerals. Braced by animated acidity, pure minerality and slight petillance, the palate is melodious and vivacious, supplying lime, calamansi and rambutan for fruits, complemented by lemongrass, lemon blossom and wet stone. Medium bodied at 12%, the invigorating entry carries onto an expressive mid-palate, leading to a jovial finish.
Provam Castas de Monção Espumante Reserva 2010
Luminous citrine with radiant golden reflex, the nose is uplifting and poised, emanating lime peel, pomelo, soda biscuit and sea salt. Maintained by piercing acidity, clear minerality and medium-fine mousse, the palate is pure and structured, providing lemon peel, grapefruit, starfruit and oyster shell. Medoium-bodied at 13%, the lively persists through an exuberant mid-palate, leading to a cleansing finish.
Provam Portal do Fidalgo Alvarinho 2013
Bright citrine with pastel sunshine reflex, the nose is pristine and uplifting, presenting bergamot, calamansi and pineapple for fruits, imbued with verbena and wet stone. Buttressed by spirited acidity, articulate minerality and slight petillance, the palate is energetic and harmonious, delivering lime, green apple and guava for fruits, supplemented by fresh herbs and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the brisk entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the charm of Vinho Verde, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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