The Cisalpine Ethos

Situated in northwestern Italy, Piemonte (or Piedmont in English) neighbours France to its west and Switzerland to its north. As revealed by its name, which literally means “at the foot of the mountains”, Piemonte is sandwiched between the Alps and the Ligurian Apennine. Although relatively small with approximately 4.6 million people and covering 25,000 sq km, Piemonte is surely one of the leading wine regions of Italy and indeed Europe.
Piemonte has been famed for its fine wines since Roman times, during which it was known as Gallia Cisalpina (literally: Gaul hither side of the Alps). From the High Middle Ages to the Early Modern period, it was ruled by the powerful House of Savoy, which acted as the vanguard of the Risorgimento and produced all monarchs of the Kingdom of Italy from 1861 to 1946. As revolutions swept across Europe in 1848, the trigger for Italian theatre was in fact directly related to wine: the Austrian Empire imposed high tariffs on Piedmontese wines in other regions of northern Italy, which were then under Austrian control. As this threatened to unravel the Piedmontese wine industry, the population rebelled, and Piemonte became one of the first Italian states to revolt against the Austrian Empire, a struggle that continued through the Risorgimento.
With more DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) than any other wine regions in Italy, Piemonte continues to occupy a unique place in the vinous map as well as in the heart of oenophiles. Somewhat unusual for Italy, Piemonte traditionally focuses on single-varietal wines, with a host of household names such as Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbesco, Barbera and Dolcetto from Alba, Moscato from Asti, Arneis from Roero and Cortese from Gavi, some of which do not travel well, but rather feel more comfortable with local terroir. This, coupled with the family-owned quality-driven smallholdings, is the reason why Piemonte is often compared to Burgundy.
In Piemonte, the vast majority of viticultural area is located in the south. Situated in Lessona in northeastern Piemonte, the family-owned Azienda Vitivinicola Pietro Cassina covers no more than 6ha of vineyards, grown on deep orange marine sand soil, hence its pronounced minerality and unmistakable elegance. Rather than using the traditional Slavonian oak or French oak, Pietro Cassina opts for Austrian and Swiss oak. All elements carefully combined, the end products are wines bursting with character and purity.

  Pietro Cassina Nivis Coste della Sesia Bianco 2014
Rich citrine with light golden reflex, the zesty nose offers physalis, grapefruit, thyme and lemon blossom. With crispy acidity and clear minerality, the composed palate delivers bergamot, mirabelle, rock salt and white flowers. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the tangy entry carries onto a vibrant mid-palate, leading to refreshing finish.

Pietro Cassina Tèra Rùssa Coste della Sesia Vespolina 2010
Rich garnet with gleaming cardinal-carmine rim, the haunting nose exudes blackberry, cranberry, redcurrant, balsam and geranium. With generous acidity, palpable minerality and attractive tannins, the exuberant palate oozes blueberry, red cherry, plum, mixed herbs and sous bois. Medium-bodied at 13%, the fleshy entry persists through a redolent mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.

Pietro Cassina Rosarum Coste della Sesia Rosato 2013
Bright salmon pink with shimmering copper reflex, the fragrant nose presents white cherry, red apple and potpourri. With tantalising acidity, clean minerality and traces and tannins, the fleshy palate provides cloudberry, rosehip and mixed herbs. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the fruit-driven entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a floral finish.

Pietro Cassina Tanzo Lessona 2010

Bright ruby with light carnelian-crimson rim, the elegant nose effuses cranberry, redcurrant, rose, black truffle and cinnamon. With abundant acidity, silky tannins and fresh minerality, the poised palate emanates raspberry, red cherry, forest mushroom, balsam and fragrant oak. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the graceful entry evolves into an animated mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the gems of Alto Piemonte, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: adaleung@cottagevineyards.com; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages