The uphill battle for Black talent in Italian fashion

Afro Fashion Association founder Michelle Ngonmo prepares models in the backstage of a show recently presented in Milan [AP Photo]

Ngonmo, a 38-year-old Cameroonian-Italian, has dedicated her professional life to helping raise the profile of Africans and other people of color in Italian fashion and other creative fields “because there was, let’s say, a lack of representation of people like me.”

Ngonmo, who founded the Afrofashion Association a decade ago, produces runway shows, mentors talent and recognizes trailblazing achievements through the Black Carpet Awards, launched in 2023. Ngonmo also teaches fashion students and travels regularly to Africa to work with designers there.

In its first decade, the Afrofashion Association has worked with 3,000 people of color, including 92 who are working in creative jobs and “on a sustainable professional path,” Ngonmo said.

That number is both a sign of the Afrofashion Association’s success, and a measure of how much more work there is to be done.

“Italy is no longer a white Italy, as imagined, but an Italy where there are many colors,” Ngonmo said.

The Black Lives Matters movement launched a discussion in Italy about the absence of people of color in Italian fashion’s influential design studios, and designers Stella Jean and Edward Buchanan teamed up with Ngonmo to demand fashion houses replace expressions of solidarity with action. The fashion industry won’t disclose diversity numbers, but the lack seemed evident as several prominent fashion houses were emerging from scandals over racially insensitive designs or campaigns.

For several seasons, the trio mentored creatives of color under the catchphrase: We Are Made in Italy (WAMI). But slowly the spotlight faded, as diversity and inclusion money dried up and the fashion industry was plunged into an economic crisis.

“At the time there was a reaction, indeed a very strong request to have to deal with creatives, especially Blacks in Italy,” Ngonmo said. “And then slowly the curtain closed because the attention was no longer on that.”

Ngonmo said she now focuses her attention “on those companies, those institutions that have remained with us during these years, and look at the result we have brought.”

That includes the Italian National Fashion Chamber, which backed WAMI and is giving platforms to up and coming Black talents on the Milan Fashion Week calendar. One of them is Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart, who heads the brand Victor-Hart and debuted his collection of mostly denim looks earlier this month.

Abbey-Hart, who recently designed a denim collection for Max & Co., has worked with Ngonmo to raise his profile. He has graduated from showing his looks at a Black Carpet Awards ceremony to a presentation during fashion week in September before the runway show.

The designer said his love affair with fashion started when he saw his first Gucci bag back in Ghana.

“I realized I want to go where it was made. So that was the dream,” he said, despite many naysayers at home who saw only obstacles. “Coming to Italy really gave me a big door of opportunity to understand what the world really asks for, as a designer.”

The Milan fashion chamber’s president, Carlo Capasa, joined top fashion editors in the front row for the packed Victor-Hart show, wearing one of the designer’s statuesque denim coats.

Capasa said projects with the Afrofashion Association have given visibility and behind-the-scenes support to more than 30 designers of color during recent fashion weeks. Ngonmo has also received support from Condé Nast’s Anna Wintour, who has met with Black Carpet Award nominees on the sidelines of Milan fashion weeks.

“There is a lot to do in diversity and inclusion everywhere in the world, for sure also in Italy,” Capasa said, adding that Ngonmo’s role has been key in helping institutions “understand what were the needs” in underrepresented communities, from mentoring to education.

Abbey-Hart said that finding opportunities as a Black man in Italy, where he has lived for the past nine years, remains hard.

“Sometimes, before you even get to the room for the interview, you’ve been disqualified already. It’s really tough, and I want people to understand,” he said. “Take away the color, take away what I represent, just look at the job.”COLLEEN BARRY, MILAN, MDT/AP