The Biodynamic Renaissance

The heritage of Château Durfort-Vivens (Deuxième Cru) can be traced back to the 12th century, and for 7 centuries it was continuously owned by the Durfort de Duras family, which also owned the nearby Château Margaux (Premier Cru). Acquired by the de Vivens family in 1824, the estate was renamed as Durfort-Vivens. History repeated itself in 1961, when the Lurton family became the owner of both Durfort-Vivens and Margaux, although the latter has changed hands since.
Durfort-Vivens might be overshadowed by its illustrious neighbour Margaux and other “super seconds”, but since Gonzague Lurton took the helm back in 1992, this historical estate has undergone a biodynamic renaissance. In a recent interview, Jérôme Heranval, director of the estate, shared his insights into biodynamic viticulture. One of the oldest estates in the Left Bank, Durfort-Vivens has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in its final blend – often around 80% – amongst Médoc wines, thanks to the estate’s gravelly soils interspersed with limestone – ideal for the variety. Working closely with geologists, in 2009 the estate became fully biodynamic, meaning the total absence of chemicals in winemaking.
As per Jérôme Heranval, biodynamic viticulture can be understood as managing energy to achieve perfect maturity. Whereas technical maturity (acidity and sugar) gradually plateaus, phenolic maturity (aroma and fruitiness) is a parabola. To make good wines, it is imperative that a balance be struck at the unique moment. Good terroirs are an advantage, as their two maturities tend to be closer, but the winemaker’s decision remains crucial. Durfort-Vivens vineyards have been extensively studied, and in practice, the same plot is often harvest on different days.
An avid golfer, Jérôme Heranval enjoys challenges and decision-making. In winemaking, he prefers “classical” (Bordelais parlance, meaning challenging) vintages to fool-proof ones such as 2005, 2009 and 2010. According to the man from Normandy, as a classic Margaux wine, Durfort-Vivens’s refreshing fruitiness is never short of complexity and elegance. Big wines such as those from Pauillac may be more impressive in tastings, but those from Margaux might be the perfect wine for drinkers.

Château Durfort-Vivens 2011
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Dark garnet with Tyrian purple-rosewood rim, the nose is heady and powerful, offering rich bilberry and black cherry for fruits, interwoven with dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, sous bois and violet. Buttressed by vivacious acidity and grippy tannins, the palate is concentrated and robust, delivering dark prune and dried damson for fruits, complemented by smoked spice, black coffee, wild mushroom and game. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the solid entry transforms into a redolent mid-palate, leading to an imposing finish. From the respectable 2008 vintage, further cellaring is necessary.

Château Durfort-Vivens 2009
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Intense garnet with Burgundy-purple rim, the nose is lifted and fragrant, radiating seductive black cherry and cassis confit for fruits, interlaced with spice box, wild mushroom, sandalwood and violet. Braced by vibrant acidity and rich tannins, the palate is compelling and spiced, providing bright bilberry and damson for fruits, enriched with eucalyptus, allspice, coffea arabica and dark chocolate. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the dense entry continues through a firm mid-palate, leading to a focused finish. From the superlative 2010 vintage, long-term cellaring is an option.

Château Durfort-Vivens 2002
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet with cardinal-purple rim, the nose is aromatic and developed, effusing ripe black cherry and damson for fruits, intertwined with liquorice, mocha, sous bois and violet. Underpinned by ample acidity and supple tannins, the palate is mature and scented, supplying juicy blackberry and morello cherry for fruits, augmented by bouquet garni, star anise, dark chocolate and black coffee. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the lively entry evolves into a potent mid-palate, leading to a rich finish. From the creditable 2002 vintage, this wine is now in its prime.

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by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.