The Spirit of Japan II

(Continued from “The Spirit of Japan” on 5 September 2014)

Although its history can be traced back to the 16th century, shochu was in a downward spiral in much of the 20th century, when it was often regarded as an old-fashioned or even outdated drink. As the new millennium dawned, so began the shochu renaissance, and the drink’s unique character and qualities are being re-discovered. Since 2003, shochu has been outselling sake in Japan, a feat as extraordinary as if beer surpasse wine as the most popular drink in France.
Apart from its rustic charm and natural aromatics, shochu is both sturdy and versatile. Unlike sake, which after opening should be finished within 3-4 weeks, shochu can last for as long as brandy or whisky, thanks to the distillation process. As long meals become increasingly difficult in the hectic modern life, the convenience and utility of drinks such as shochu, Madeira, brandy and whisky are obvious.
Thanks to its higher alcohol content, typically 15%-35%, shochu can be enjoyed neat, chilled, warmed, on the rocks (“roku”), mixed with water or soda, whether warm (“oyuwari”) or cold (“mizuwari”). Adding water at different proportion and temperature helps unlock the various aromatic profiles of shochu, whereas the ardent followers would insist on enjoying it neat.
As a rule of thumb, rice shochu tends to be elegant and fragrant, barley shochu rustic and vigorous, whereas sweet potato shochu charming and hearty. Shochu can be produced from pretty much any starch-rich ingredients, and those made with buckwheat, chestnut, sesame seeds, carrots or brown sugar are amongst the most interesting specialities.
To discover the hidden treasure of Japanese shochu, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: [email protected]; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

  Miyasaka Suwa Plum Liquor Masumi
Made with 100% Honkaku Shochu and Japanese plum. Light tangerine with pale copper reflex, the nose is aromatic and forthright, effusing red cherry, ume and marzipan, decorated with plum blossom. Medium-full bodied and off-sweet at 14%, the appealing and tantalising palate reveals white cherry, greengage, hawthorn and crack seed.

Kami-shuzo Izumi Honkaku Imo Shochu Kurokame
Made with 100% sweet potato from Kyushu and black yeast. Pure transparent in appearance, the nose is fragrant and natural, providing apricot and roasted barley, enriched with genmaicha. Medium-full bodied at 25%, the palate is expressive and hearty, supplying umeboshi, baked sweet potato and roasted chestnut. Vaguely sweet but thoroughly dry, the mouthfeel is smoky and spicy.

Komaki-jozo Kagoshima Honkaku Imo Shochu Ikkomon
Made with 100% sweet potato and yeast thereof from southern Kyushu. “Ikkomon” means “stubborn” in the local dialect, pointing to the painstaking distillation process. Pure transparent in appearance, the nose is charming and harmonious, offering Greengage and sweet potato soup, adorned with plum blossom. Full-bodied at 25%, the palate is moreish and warm, delivering apricot and puffed rice, elaborated with cherry blossom. Vaguely sweet but thoroughly dry, the mouthfeel is energetic yet rounded.

Available via multiple channels – wine merchants, hotels and restaurants etc.

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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