The Quintessence of Japan II

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan” on 11 December 2015)

Although the origin of sake remains shrouded in mystery, it is commonly held that it did not come into being without Chinese influence. China’s boozy history predates even its earliest written record in an oracle bone script from the Shanghai dynasty (1558 BC-1046 BC). By the Zhou dynasty (1046 BC-256 BC), liquors were institutionalised in the Rites of Zhou. Rice agriculture in the form of the paddy field was introduced to Japan during the Yayoi period (300 BC-300 AD), thereby sowing the seeds of sake. To this day, Japanese sake brewers still bear the respectable title of Toji, from Du Kang, the legendary inventor of the liquor.
The first written record of Japan contained in Records of the Three Kingdoms –
Book of Wei and Japan’s first written record of history Kojiki both mentioned drinks and drinking. Sake as we know it probably took shape during the Nara period (710-794), and it went on to be incorporated into court and religious ceremonies during the Heian period (794-1185). Prior to the 10th century, sake production used to be a government monopoly, but monasteries and shrines became involved at the turn of the millennium. Whereas in Europe Catholic monasteries used to be centres of oenological advancement, in Japan Shinot shrines were the vehicles for sake development. Indeed, Sake is to Shinto what wine is to Christianity.
As the Meiji Restoration ushered modernity to Japan, sake production becomes more, not less, intertwined with Japanese history. In the late 19th century, aiming to promote economic development and increase tax revenue, the government encouraged people to start their own businesses, and consequently more than 30,000 breweries were established, which is why many breweries still in existence today originate from the late 19th century. By 1898, nearly half of the government’s total direct tax revenue came from sake. During the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905), the government banned home brew sake altogether, aiming to retain tax revenue. Due to embargoes, rations and shortages, sake production was severely curbed during WWII. Today, although just under 2,000 breweries are left, most are time-honoured and quality-driven smallholdings of family traditions.
Established by the Miyasaka family in 1662 in Suwa, Nagano, Masumi (literally “transparency” or “truth”) took its name from an 8th century bronze mirror kept at the Suwa Taisha Shinto shrine. Prior to the Sengoku period (1467-1603), the Miyasaka family used to be retainers of local lords, but gave up the sword and turned to sake making in the 16th century. It is said that one of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu’s sons was such a big fan of Masumi sake that there was always a bottle by his side.

Masumi Okuden Kanzukuri Junmai
Made with rice at 60% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with yellowish hues, the approachable nose offers chive, sweet ginger and soy sauce. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a rounded texture, the sweetish palate delivers peach pit, mochi and rice cracker, leading to a savoury finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Masumi Karakuchi Kiippon Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 55% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with light beige hues, the refreshing nose presents grapefruit, spring onion and paperwhite. Medium-bodied at 15% with a smooth texture, the fruity palate supplies Japanese pear, rice sponge and jasmine, leading to a sweetish finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Masumi Kippuku Kinju Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 55% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with pale citrine hues, the pure nose furnishes honeydew, springwater and daffodil. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a creamy texture, the engaging palate provides loquat, winter melon and rice bran, leading to a clean finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Masumi Sanka Junmai Daiginjo
Made with rice at 45% polishing ratio. Translucent clear and nearly crystal white, the pristine nose effuses white peach, grass, wet stone and lily. Medium-bodied at 16% with a weightless texture, the floral palate emanates greengage, glutinous rice, springwater and frangipani, leading to a lingering finish. Best served chilled. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages