The Southern Charm

Occupying almost a third of Portugal, the southern province of Alentejo is renowned for producing wines combining complexity, fruitiness and richness. Although the region traditionally focused on agriculture, especially cork and olive oil production, and that its wines used to be considered as merely approachable and quaffable, a little revolution has taken place in recent decades, leading to the emergence of fine wines from Alentejo.
For starters, Alentejo’s vast geographical area is home to a wide array of meso-climates and terroirs, resulting in an intriguing range of wine styles. The mesmerising, if disorienting, list of Portuguese indigenous varieties might be the bane of wine learners, but in a land as diverse as Alentejo, the different varieties and their seemingly limitless permutations virtually guarantees endless intrigue. As connoisseurs of Portuguese wine would know, every Alentejo wine can be remarkably different, and every estate a universe unto itself.
Alentejo has been the centre of Portugal’s viticultural renaissance for the past few decades, and wine quality is consistently on the ascendant, so much so that wine lovers and traders alike could not fail to realise its status and further potential. This apparently humble region of Portugal is already taking on Spanish reds and, given time, why would it not challenge the height of Italian DOCGs and French crus?
in a recent tasting hosted by Palatium Fine Wines at the presence of Paulo Correia, Director of Encostas de Estremoz, various fine wines from this respectable estate were featured. It would only be fair to conclude that many Alentejo wines no longer belong to the “value-for-money” category, but are genuinely striving for world-class quality.

   Encostas de Estremoz Terras de Estremoz 2012
A blend of Fernão Pires, Roupeiro and Rabo de Ovelha. Rich lemon-yellow with bright golden reflex, the refreshing nose offers lemon peel, apricot and jackfruit, augmented by fresh bread. Supported by piercing acidity and clear minerality, the clean palate delivers pomelo peel, starfruit and passion fruit, infused with fresh herbs. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the tangy entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to a pure finish.

Encostas de Estremoz Castelo de Estremoz 2013
A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Castelão. Rich garnet with cardinal-purple rim, the youthful nose provides bilberry and black cherry, elaborated with geranium. Braced by abundant acidity and juicy tannins, the fruit-driven palate supplies damson and blueberry jam, enriched with garriques. Medium-bodied at 13%, the approachable entry continues through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a fleshy finish.

Encostas de Estremoz Escolha da Enóloga 2012
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Alicante Bouschet. Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the plush nose oozes cassis, black cherry, clove, tobacco and sandalwood, decorated by violet. Buttressed by generous acidity and tasty tannins, the redolent palate exudes damson, prune, mocha, dark chocolate and sous bois. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the potent entry transforms into a meaty mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

Encostas de Estremoz D. Joana Reserva 2009
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Alicante Bouschet. Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the aromatic nose radiates plum, prune, Christmas spice, coffea arabica, dark chocolate and leather. Underpinned by abundant acidity and ripe tannins, the profound palate emanates bilberry, damson, liquorice, allspice, tobacco leaf and charred wood. Full-bodied at 14%, the dense entry evolves into an intense mid-palate, leading to a powerful finish.

Available at Palatium Fine Wines; Contact: Mr Pedro Lobo; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.