The Wildness of Beauty

United and indivisible as the republic proclaims to be, France is a country of irrepressible diversity, especially in its limitrophe regions such as Alsace, Brittany, Savoie, the Basque and Catalan southwest, as well as Corsica, the birthplace of Napoléon Bonaparte.
Often referred to as l’Île de Beauté (“island of beauty”), Corsica was for centuries ruled by the Republic of Genoa, hence its unique Italian-influenced character. In fact, the island was anything but French until 1769, when the Ancien Régime annexed the Corsican Republic, having just declared itself independent from the said maritime republic. The disposed and exiled leader Pasquale Paoli, considering the young Napoléon too ambitious and sympathetic to France, would later on become his political enemy.
Located 170km from the French mainland yet merely 90km from Italy or 11km from Sardinia, Italian influence can be vividly felt in Corsican culture and language, cuisine and wine. Vines were first planted here by Ionian Greek seafaring traders from Phocaea in the 6th century BC. The island’s main grape varieties are the Italian-originated Vermentino, Niellucciu (Sangiovese) and Sciaccarellu (Mammolo), along with French Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, as well as Spanish Tempranillo – such diversity was unheard-of until the emergence of all-encompassing AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) of the US.
The most southerly wine region of France, Corsica is surprisingly good at producing refreshing whites and elegant reds, since many of its prime vineyards are situated on high altitude, and vines are often grown on mineral-rich granitic soil.

   Clos Canarelli Figari Blanc 2013
Located in southern Corsica, Figari AOC is the oldest viticultural area of the island. This single-varietal Vermentino was matured for 8 months in old oak foudres and barriques. Light lemon-yellow with pastel golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers lemon peel, lime, apricot and fleur de sel, decorated by pear blossom. Supported by crispy acidity and clear minerality, the pristine palate delivers lime peel, lemon, green apple and greengage, infused with fresh herbs. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the refreshing entry continues through a stimulating mid-palate, leading to a tantalising finish.

Domaine Comte Péraldi 2011
From Ajaccio AOC in western Corsica, Domaine Comte Péraldi is arguably the most prestigious estate of the island. This blend of 70% Sciaccarellu, 20% Cinsault and 10% Carignan was matured in old oak barrels and concrete tanks for 12 months. Bright ruby with amaranth-crimson rim, the floral nose effuses strawberry, redcurrant and rose hip, embellished by maquis and camellia. Underpinned by animated acidity and velvety tannins, the endearing palate oozes red apple peel, hawthorn and pomegranate, infused with fresh thyme and rose tisane. Medium-light bodied at 13.5%, the fragrant entry evolves into a succulent mid-palate, leading to a graceful finish.

Clos Canarelli Figari Rouge 2012
Of the same provenance, this blend of 80% Niellucciu, 15% Syrah and 5% Sciacarellu was matured in old oak foudres for 18 months, then bottled unfiltered and unfined. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the elegant nose reveals bilberry, red cherry and fleur de sel, adorned with maquis and violet. Buttressed by tangy acidity and juicy tannins, the stylish palate provides cranberry, raspberry and smoked spice, imbued with Qimen red tea and lavender. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the delicate entry carries onto a poised mid-palate, leading to a discreet finish.

Domaine Comte Péraldi Clos du Cardinal 2011
Of the same provenance by an estate which has been planting vines since the 16th century, this single-varietal Sciaccarellu was matured in old oak barrels for 18 months. Rich ruby with rosso corsa-scarlet rim, the perfumed nose radiates raspberry, redcurrant, jujube and cinnamon, complemented by maquis and violet. Braced by spirited acidity and silky tannins, the sophisticated palate emanates cranberry, lingonberry, morello cherry and nutmeg, augmented by Dahongpao red tea and violet essence. Medium-bodied at 14.5%, the serene entry persists through a subtle mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

To be continued…

Rhône Wines Ltd is a specialist of biodynamic / organic wines from Rhône, Provence and Corsica, supplying to trade and private customers alike in Macao and Hong Kong. Facebook: Rhône Wines Ltd; E: [email protected]

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.